Revision as of 03:40, 20 July 2015

Safety Instructions

Building the printer will require a certain amount of physical dexterity, common sense and a thorough understanding of what you are doing. We have provided this detailed instruction to help you assemble it easily. However ultimately we cannot be responsible for your health and safety whilst building or operating the printer, with that in mind be sure you are confident with what you are doing prior to commencing with building or buying. Read the entire manual to enable you to make an informed decision. Building and operating involves electricity, so all necessary precautions should be taken and adhered to, the printer runs on 12V supplied by a certified power supply, so you shouldn’t ever have to get involved with anything over 12V but bear in mind there can still be high currents involved and even at 12V they shouldn’t be taken lightly. High temperatures are involved with 3D Printing, the Extrusion nozzle of the hot end can run about 230°C, the heated bed runs 110°C and the molten plastic extruded will initially be at around 200°C, so special care and attention should be made when handling these parts of the printer during operation. We wouldn’t recommend leaving your printer running unattended, or at least until you are confident to do so. We cannot be held responsible for any loss, damage, threat, hurt or other negligent result from either building or using the printer.

Preparation

1. Unpack the kit and check if all parts are in the box and check the condition of each part, there might be some damage during shipping. To help you with this, there is BOM in the box and each bag was labeled with part number. 2. Contact our customer service immediately by email or through the website if you find any missing or damaged parts. And on the bottom of the BOM, there is a signature of reviewer, please take a picture of it and attach the picture in your mail. 3. Read through each chapter of these instructions to gain an over-all idea of what is involved and how long it might take, before starting on the work described. Or you can watch the video here. 4. Before you start, you can put all the part in order to save your time especially those screws and nuts. Do not mix them up. 5. Ensure you have the necessary skills to carry out the work, or enlist the help of someone who does. 6. Work on a big firm table or bench in a clean dry well-lit area. 7. This kit contains tiny parts; please keep them away from kids under 3. 8. Ask for help if you run into any problems - our contact details are on the website and we will always do our best to resolve any problems encountered.

Unfold the box and check the package list

Unfold the package and take all the parts out to check the condition of the items.

• All the acrylichttp://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Special:Upload plate has been etched with part ID and the plate is covered with a sheet of kraft paper, you need to tear them off.
• The part ID is corresponding thttp://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Special:Uploado the number labeled on the bag of every part. Some parts may not have label, you can refer to the pictures on the package list.

1. Assemble the threaded rods of Y axis

Thread the nuts and washers into the two M10 threaded rods separately. The order should be:

1) Thread the acrylic fender (Y plate connecting plate) in the middle.

2)Thread the M10 washer>M10 nut >M10 nut >

 M10 nut <M10 nut < M8 spring washer<M10 washer in turn on the left 

3) Thread theM10 washer < M8 spring washer < M10 nut < M10 nut< M8 spring washer < M10 washer in turn on the right

Watch the Video here.

2. Assemble the front and back support of y axis.

Thread the rod to the plate, screw up the threaded rods and plate with M10 nut and M10 washer at both end. You don’t have to tighten it because you need to adjust the distance between the front and rear plate later when you assemble the side panel.

• Tips:

the Y-axis must be a rectangle, that is the rods on both side should be parallel, so is the front and back plate. Otherwise it will cause obstruction for the belt later. You can use a Digital Caliper to measure.

You can watch the video here.

3.Mount the Y motor

Step1. Mount the pulley on the motor shaft, one of the screws should be screwed on the cross section of the shaft. Screw it tightly.

Step2. Then screw the motor on the block plate with 3 M3 x 12 screws .

Insert the motor holder into the slot; you may need to use a little strength to do this.

Fix the holder plate with 2 M3 x 16 screws and M3 square nut.

• be careful in case the Acrylic break down.

You can watch the video here.

4.Y belt driving wheel

Step1. Thread the M3 x 20 screw through the bearing holder.

Step2. Put the M4 x25 screw through the holes with the two 624ZZ bearings in between. Lock the other end with a M4 lock nut. You may need a spanner to tighten locking nut.

Step3. Mount the assembled bearing holder onto the front support plates. And screw it with a wing nut.

• Please leave enough room for the belt between the ball bearing and the screw.

You can refer to the video here.

5. Build the print platform

Step1. Mount the belt mount at the middle of the building platform support with two M3 x12mm screw and M3 washer.

Step2. Mount the 4 SCS8UU linear bearings on the building platform support with two M4x16mm screw and M4 washer.

You can refer to the video here.

6. Mount the Y belt

Step1. Punch a M2.5 hole on one end of the belt（the hole can be as the diameter of the M2.5 screw , leave enough margin ）

Step2. Fix the belt on one side of the belt -mount with a M3 x 8 screw and washer.

Step3. Thread the belt around the pulley on the motor and the 624zz ball bearing.

• Tips: 

1. Before you drill your second hole, make sure to pull belt tightly to make sure to  proper placement of hole for a tight belt, if it is too loose, it will hinder the move of the print platform.

2. Loosen the Y idler wing nut when tightening belt onto the Y belt mount [No. 67] in order to make securing the belt to the block easier. Be sure to tighten wing nut fully  once done.

Watch the video here.

7.Left Z motor mount

Step 1. Mount the endstop on the endstop mount with two M2.5 x 16screws and nut.

Step 2. Mount the assembled endstop mount on the A4 with M3 x 16mm screw and M3 Square nut.

Step 3. Assemble the motor holder (left) and the motor holder support together, screw it up with 3 M3 x 16mm screw and M3 Square nut.

Watch the video here.

8.Right Z motor mount

Assemble the motor holder ((right) and the motor holder support together, screw it up with 3 M3 x 16mm screw and M3 Square nut.

Watch the video here.

9.Two Z motor mount assembled to the main frame(A1)

Mount the to assembled Z motor mount to A1 with M3 x 16mm screw and M3 Square nut.

• Be very careful here, if you can not insert it into the hole you can loose the screw on the motor mount and try again.

Watch the video here.

10.Side panel assembly

Fix the side panel on A1 with M3 x 16mm screw, M3 Square nut and M3 washer.

Watch the video here.

11.Main frame assembly

Step 1. Thread the assembled Y axis into the main frame(A1), put the main frame between the Connecting fender and the M10 nut. The Connecting fender is at the front part of the Y axis. Step 2. Connect the side panel to the rear support plate, screw it up with M3 x 16mm screw and M3 square nut. Step 3. Fix the connecting fender to A1 with M3 x 20mm screw and M3 hex nut.

Watch the video here.

12.Fan mount

Mount the fan on the left side of the A1. Watch the video here.

13.Assemble the left end of the X axis（motor end)

For the whole process of assembly of this part, please refer here.

Step 1. Mount the Z-axis nut.

Mount the Z nut on the A 18 from bottom to up, fix with M3 x 16mm screw and M3 washer.

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