I have just built my I3 pro b acrylic printer and when I home the printer the hotend stops just clear of the hotbed without the glass on and just outside the edge of the hotbed the z axis stop is screwed down all the way and also the hotbed . picture attached but not very clear I'm afraid.
I'm new to this so any help would be great
I3 pro b homing problem
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Could you upload the pics of issue again?
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-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
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Re: I3 pro b homing problem
picture attached
It hits the z axis endstop but its below the level of the glass plate even with the endstop screw screwed fully down and the bed plate all the way down
[attachment=0]zaxis.png[/attachment]
It hits the z axis endstop but its below the level of the glass plate even with the endstop screw screwed fully down and the bed plate all the way down
[attachment=0]zaxis.png[/attachment]
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- zaxis.png (3.01 MiB) Viewed 11451 times
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Have you tried to adjust this part?
- TOUCH].png (860.26 KiB) Viewed 11447 times
-Keep your mind and try to test it.
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Hi William
Yes I've screwed the screw all the way down could I use a longer screw?
Yes I've screwed the screw all the way down could I use a longer screw?
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Sure!You can use the longer
-Keep your mind and try to test it.
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
From your photos, you have two things that you need to address.
The first one is that your bed has an "Offset" on the X axis (the X endstop triggers at around 13mm to the left of the bed). This isn't a problem, it is just something that you need to be aware of. It's actually part of the design of this type of printer. Learning what to do about it is part of learning how your printer works.
Read this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Configuring_Marl ... Dimensions
Depending on your level of expertise when it comes to editing & compiling Marlin, you can either hardcode it in & re-flash your firmware (option 1), or use M206 X-13 to set it from a terminal & then M500 to save it to the EEPROM (option 2). It's six of one, & half a dozen of the other. Your offset will be somewhere between -10 & -15, I know mine is on my Pro W.
Secondly, slacken off the wingnuts under your hotbed (so it rises up & meets your hotend). You appear to have loads of slack, & all you need is to gain around 4 or 5mm in height. I would give yourself a mm or two of slack on your Z-endstop, whilst you're at it (so it isn't screwed all the way down). Then level your bed using a sheet of paper to get the spacing below your nozzle correct.
Job done. A couple of minutes setting your X_Offset with M206, a couple of minutes raising your bed, & a while levelling your bed - & you'll be doing a test print before you know it.
The first one is that your bed has an "Offset" on the X axis (the X endstop triggers at around 13mm to the left of the bed). This isn't a problem, it is just something that you need to be aware of. It's actually part of the design of this type of printer. Learning what to do about it is part of learning how your printer works.
Read this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Configuring_Marl ... Dimensions
Depending on your level of expertise when it comes to editing & compiling Marlin, you can either hardcode it in & re-flash your firmware (option 1), or use M206 X-13 to set it from a terminal & then M500 to save it to the EEPROM (option 2). It's six of one, & half a dozen of the other. Your offset will be somewhere between -10 & -15, I know mine is on my Pro W.
Secondly, slacken off the wingnuts under your hotbed (so it rises up & meets your hotend). You appear to have loads of slack, & all you need is to gain around 4 or 5mm in height. I would give yourself a mm or two of slack on your Z-endstop, whilst you're at it (so it isn't screwed all the way down). Then level your bed using a sheet of paper to get the spacing below your nozzle correct.
Job done. A couple of minutes setting your X_Offset with M206, a couple of minutes raising your bed, & a while levelling your bed - & you'll be doing a test print before you know it.
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Hi Justin
The z axis was actually stopping below the level of the glass plate so I had taken that off it's not very clear in the photo that's why I had the stop screw and bed screwed down all the way a longer screw on the stop has sorted that.
Took your advice and altered the x offset and it's working great now thanks.
The z axis was actually stopping below the level of the glass plate so I had taken that off it's not very clear in the photo that's why I had the stop screw and bed screwed down all the way a longer screw on the stop has sorted that.
Took your advice and altered the x offset and it's working great now thanks.
Re: I3 pro b homing problem
Glad to be of help. I'm not that far ahead of you in terms of 3D Printing experience, it's just that I've gone through really similar problems & have finally come up with good solutions. Of course, good solutions are even better if you pass them on, as I know & really understand just how frustrating these little "gotcha's" can be, & just how much they can throw a spanner in the works.