Hi!
I'm trying to print a complex object witch required more or less 10h printing.
Yesterday the printing stopped at 40%, the screen went blank but still on. The reset button did not work so I had to turn off the printer.
I tried again today, but reaching 50% it stopped again. It's not a file error, or it should have stopped at the same point.
The screen is still blank, but I'm waiting for a solution because I don't want to start this piece again, wasting time and material.
I'm printing from SD, so it isn't a PC problem either.
I got the printer on march so it's pretty new.
Blank screen and stop mid print
Re: Blank screen and stop mid print
Hi, I think maybe your Motherboard problem, you can Restart or Reflash firmware.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. 
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-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: Blank screen and stop mid print
Hello.
I would additionally check what happens to the power supply at such a moment.
I would additionally check what happens to the power supply at such a moment.
On the forum I help to use the rod, I don't give fish.
Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 Dual extruder Mixcolor 3D printer, bought 2017-12-19, already built, in the cognitive and improvement phase
Geeetech filament, ABS only
Geeetech 3D WiFi Module for 3D Printer, bought 2018-04-15, He got a new life, and still lies in a drawer.
Positively frenzied customer of Getech Technology.
Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 Dual extruder Mixcolor 3D printer, bought 2017-12-19, already built, in the cognitive and improvement phase
Geeetech filament, ABS only
Geeetech 3D WiFi Module for 3D Printer, bought 2018-04-15, He got a new life, and still lies in a drawer.
Positively frenzied customer of Getech Technology.
Re: Blank screen and stop mid print
Thank you both, I'll reinstall the firmware and check the power supply
Re: Blank screen and stop mid print
A blank screen is a sign of a low voltage / voltage drop. The backlight of the LCD display will still work on a lower voltage, but the Arduino will not resulting in a backlit LCD screen with no text.
For me it was a bad capacitor on the logic board next to the 15A fuse for the hotbed. Having a bad capacitor may result in a low resistance path (or in a most extreme case a short) across the power supply line resulting in a high current flow which in my case was not enough to trigger the 15A SMT Littlefuse to blow. As a result the supply line voltage dropped. This caused the Arduino microcontroller to reboot. As this instantly stopped the heating of the hotbed by the Arduino, the hotbed heating circuit was no longer receiving power and the capacitor somewhat recovered. The system was stable until a next print was started.
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 98&t=68362
Note the nozzle heating circuit uses a 10A Little fuse and similar capacitor. As the nozzle draws far less current than the hotbed, I would look at the hotbed circuit first. You could run a print with the hotbed disabled in your G code or by using the "Tune" menu to set the hotbed temperature to room temperature during printing, just for testing purposes.
I had ordered a new logic board and decided to crudely twist and pull off the capacitor with long nose pliers in a last attempt to see if that was the cause of the problem. The original logic board has been running fine ever since without an anti ripple capacitor on the 15A circuit for the hotbed.
The Geeetech A10 printer and GT2560 v3 board are well designed and capable of running for hours non-stop with good accuracy / consistency.
For me it was a bad capacitor on the logic board next to the 15A fuse for the hotbed. Having a bad capacitor may result in a low resistance path (or in a most extreme case a short) across the power supply line resulting in a high current flow which in my case was not enough to trigger the 15A SMT Littlefuse to blow. As a result the supply line voltage dropped. This caused the Arduino microcontroller to reboot. As this instantly stopped the heating of the hotbed by the Arduino, the hotbed heating circuit was no longer receiving power and the capacitor somewhat recovered. The system was stable until a next print was started.
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 98&t=68362
Note the nozzle heating circuit uses a 10A Little fuse and similar capacitor. As the nozzle draws far less current than the hotbed, I would look at the hotbed circuit first. You could run a print with the hotbed disabled in your G code or by using the "Tune" menu to set the hotbed temperature to room temperature during printing, just for testing purposes.
I had ordered a new logic board and decided to crudely twist and pull off the capacitor with long nose pliers in a last attempt to see if that was the cause of the problem. The original logic board has been running fine ever since without an anti ripple capacitor on the 15A circuit for the hotbed.
The Geeetech A10 printer and GT2560 v3 board are well designed and capable of running for hours non-stop with good accuracy / consistency.