Hi all,
I just get my A10 printer. Dog sample prints well so fine.
I installed cura and get the config file from the thread (http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... A10#p85872) and tried my own creation (basic heart shape).
When i launched the print, the pla doesnt stick on the bed. Tho i tried 65 for bed temperature.
I did tried to print the dog again to see if i set down any wrong param, but it works well.
Any idea of what's going on ?
First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
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WhippingBoy
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2018 4:25 am
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
Hey philiul.
I have exact same issue, im using geeetech white PLA, can print the dog but everything else dont stick well.
slic3r can extract config from g.code file so I was planning to extract the config from the dog.gcode just to see the difference.
also I tried cleaning the bed with alcohol that seems to help a bit.
I was wondering how the quality is regarding geeetechs own PLA is, so I plan to try antoher brand just to see how that goes.
Please share if you find any solution on this.
I have exact same issue, im using geeetech white PLA, can print the dog but everything else dont stick well.
slic3r can extract config from g.code file so I was planning to extract the config from the dog.gcode just to see the difference.
also I tried cleaning the bed with alcohol that seems to help a bit.
I was wondering how the quality is regarding geeetechs own PLA is, so I plan to try antoher brand just to see how that goes.
Please share if you find any solution on this.
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WhippingBoy
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2018 4:25 am
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?(solved)
A new print head fixed the issue.
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
Hi,
new to 3D printing...Happy to see other people with same issue : Dog prints so well...but any other print failed with first layer refused to stick !
My only solution so far was to print a raft (works well) and so the thing sticks on it.
Whippingboy, why did you change the print head? which one did you buy?
philiul : did you find a solution?
Thanks in advance,
J2C
new to 3D printing...Happy to see other people with same issue : Dog prints so well...but any other print failed with first layer refused to stick !
My only solution so far was to print a raft (works well) and so the thing sticks on it.
Whippingboy, why did you change the print head? which one did you buy?
philiul : did you find a solution?
Thanks in advance,
J2C
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
Try
No Joke
- 84155870.jpg (51.06 KiB) Viewed 14438 times
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Tastenkrueppel
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 5:16 pm
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
Hi,
there are two culprits with Cura's default settings and the first layer.
The first one is the fan speed which is set to full speed right from the start. Since we set an initial fan speed of 0 and full speed at 1 mm, our adhesion issues were greatly reduced.
The second one is the first layer's thickness which can be set up separately. By default it's 0.3 mm even if you set a lower overall value. Lower this one to your overall layer thickness too (we're printing pretty much everything at 0.2 mm layer height. Half the nozzle diameter seems to be a reasonable value for anything).
Cheers
there are two culprits with Cura's default settings and the first layer.
The first one is the fan speed which is set to full speed right from the start. Since we set an initial fan speed of 0 and full speed at 1 mm, our adhesion issues were greatly reduced.
The second one is the first layer's thickness which can be set up separately. By default it's 0.3 mm even if you set a lower overall value. Lower this one to your overall layer thickness too (we're printing pretty much everything at 0.2 mm layer height. Half the nozzle diameter seems to be a reasonable value for anything).
Cheers
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Tastenkrueppel
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 5:16 pm
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
... diluted water soluble (!) wood glue (Ponal for example). 1 part glue, 2 parts water. Also no joke and working great on our Creality Ender3 with a mirror tile. The main advantage is that you can more easily apply a very thin layer that "straightens" itself due to being liquid after all.
No need for it on our A10M though.
Cheers
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
While I understand that the goal is to print on the Geeetech Super Plate without anything else, Elmer's Purple Glue Stick is very helpful. Use a very light coat and no need to repeat application until at least a dozen or so prints.
I have found that the gap margin between being too low and or too high and not sticking at all is narrower on the outside edges than at the middle. Perhaps it's a heat disbursement issue. There is about on 5C degree difference between the center and corners on ourreliable first printer. The glue may help make up for that temperature difference.
But, there is another surface that I REALLY love. It came with our CraneQuad. It's a form of PCB board called FR4. I'm hoping M3D will stock it. It's the same size as the bed on the A10 and is AMAZING! I have an email into their product manager and should know something on Monday.
I've created tools that allow me to use a digital indicator to level the bed with a max of 0.03mm deviation at the corners; but, the center deviates .1mm or slightly more. So, I am still trying to chase down how to reliably stick the outside edges without glue. At some point, we will produce a video showing the tool and how to use a digital indicator for leveling for our teachers. We'll post a link here.
FILAMENT RECOMMENDATION
Having tried dozens of filaments over the years we've been teaching 3D printing over multiple sites, we've finally come to the conclusion that the most reliable filament we've tried has been PolyMax from PolyMaker. We have some i3 style printers from Monoprice and Wanhao that are far too prone to clog even when well leveled and gapped. That is not true when using PolyMax. It even works with all-metal hot ends. It's not inexpensive; but, neither is failure.
I have found that the gap margin between being too low and or too high and not sticking at all is narrower on the outside edges than at the middle. Perhaps it's a heat disbursement issue. There is about on 5C degree difference between the center and corners on ourreliable first printer. The glue may help make up for that temperature difference.
But, there is another surface that I REALLY love. It came with our CraneQuad. It's a form of PCB board called FR4. I'm hoping M3D will stock it. It's the same size as the bed on the A10 and is AMAZING! I have an email into their product manager and should know something on Monday.
I've created tools that allow me to use a digital indicator to level the bed with a max of 0.03mm deviation at the corners; but, the center deviates .1mm or slightly more. So, I am still trying to chase down how to reliably stick the outside edges without glue. At some point, we will produce a video showing the tool and how to use a digital indicator for leveling for our teachers. We'll post a link here.
FILAMENT RECOMMENDATION
Having tried dozens of filaments over the years we've been teaching 3D printing over multiple sites, we've finally come to the conclusion that the most reliable filament we've tried has been PolyMax from PolyMaker. We have some i3 style printers from Monoprice and Wanhao that are far too prone to clog even when well leveled and gapped. That is not true when using PolyMax. It even works with all-metal hot ends. It's not inexpensive; but, neither is failure.
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
Hi.
In every country there is a producer of fine quality filament.
So advertising of the selected product is inappropriate here.
Your suggestions may be valuable, so to avoid such situations, please provide several producers.
I can recommend you a Monstick brand filament from my country, or a Geeetech filament.
In every country there is a producer of fine quality filament.
So advertising of the selected product is inappropriate here.
Your suggestions may be valuable, so to avoid such situations, please provide several producers.
I can recommend you a Monstick brand filament from my country, or a Geeetech filament.
On the forum I help to use the rod, I don't give fish.
Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 Dual extruder Mixcolor 3D printer, bought 2017-12-19, already built, in the cognitive and improvement phase
Geeetech filament, ABS only
Geeetech 3D WiFi Module for 3D Printer, bought 2018-04-15, He got a new life, and still lies in a drawer.
Positively frenzied customer of Getech Technology.
Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 Dual extruder Mixcolor 3D printer, bought 2017-12-19, already built, in the cognitive and improvement phase
Geeetech filament, ABS only
Geeetech 3D WiFi Module for 3D Printer, bought 2018-04-15, He got a new life, and still lies in a drawer.
Positively frenzied customer of Getech Technology.
Re: First layer doesnt stick to bed ?
I appreciate your concern about advertising. But, if you read carefully, what I was relating was our experience with using a particular type of PLA filament. Polymaker makes a variety of PLA filaments and while we have used all of them, in our experience, where our teachers must complete and return all of the student's designs each week, reliability is our top priority. And, that one type of PLA filament among all their other offerings and the offerings of other manufacturers we've tried has presented the least amount of problems.
My remarks were meant to be helpful to those struggling. And, not meant to discount the many filaments we have not tried. Nor, have we tested Geetech filament, which may be just as good.
Filament quality is particularly important to us. We are having to throw away and replace more than 30 3D printers, some costing nearly $5,000 because the printers rely on a sole source for filament and that filament is just plain poor. 20+ Cube2, 6 Cube3, 3 CubePro (Duo & Trio). When you break down the printers, you find that they are incredible well made; but, no matter how well designed the machines may have been for the time they were designed, poor availability of filament makes them worthless to us.
Conversely, since we are exploring replacement printers, and have been for a while, I would not think it fair to a new printer being tested if I did not use a filament of known quality and reliability. And, for us, that first filament is PolyMax. Once we establish a baseline with that known filament, we can try other filaments with which to compare performance and reliability. Since our tests are going EXTREMELY well with the Geeetech A10, I expect that at some point we will test that as well. We don't like spending extra money if we don't have to.
I might add that we cannot, in good conscience, use ABS in a school setting until the fumes questions are fully resolved.
My remarks were meant to be helpful to those struggling. And, not meant to discount the many filaments we have not tried. Nor, have we tested Geetech filament, which may be just as good.
Filament quality is particularly important to us. We are having to throw away and replace more than 30 3D printers, some costing nearly $5,000 because the printers rely on a sole source for filament and that filament is just plain poor. 20+ Cube2, 6 Cube3, 3 CubePro (Duo & Trio). When you break down the printers, you find that they are incredible well made; but, no matter how well designed the machines may have been for the time they were designed, poor availability of filament makes them worthless to us.
Conversely, since we are exploring replacement printers, and have been for a while, I would not think it fair to a new printer being tested if I did not use a filament of known quality and reliability. And, for us, that first filament is PolyMax. Once we establish a baseline with that known filament, we can try other filaments with which to compare performance and reliability. Since our tests are going EXTREMELY well with the Geeetech A10, I expect that at some point we will test that as well. We don't like spending extra money if we don't have to.
I might add that we cannot, in good conscience, use ABS in a school setting until the fumes questions are fully resolved.