No, your pictures show there was a problem in the connector. Most likely its the two tin foil connector pieces carrying the whole heat bed current.exodius wrote: ↑Wed Oct 17, 2018 1:08 amHello
Thanks for your replys Dilbert
I have a nice milliohm meter somewhere in that horible pile of stuff in my basement. I will try to find it and mesure the resistance of the heatbed, let's says hummm in 20+ more hours (because it's printing atm).
Maybe we have a problem of very low resistance with the heat bed ? Really i don't know.
From the pics i send, i "seems", but i can be wrong, that the connector already got a nice solder bridge between the two +12V pins. Maybe the solder joint was not good ?
Got an answer email from geeetech :Hello,
Thanks for contacting us!
Hope you have a great day!
Thanks for your feedback!
1.We think the issue lead by the poor contact between PSU and motherboard
2.There is a problem with the PSU input soldering of the motherboard
3.The 180W psu is not suit for your printer(We have upgrade it to 230W)
4.If it allows, we suggest you upgrade your PSU to 230W.
5.You can contact the sales to send you the new motherboard.
Regards
2.There is a problem with the PSU input soldering of the motherboard
This one !
Bad solder joint can result in lost of contact inside the joint (cold solder anyone ?)
I still think that the board desing should joint with a PCB trace the 2 +12V rails, and the schematics clearly not showing this joint. AND a better connector + more gauge on the power supply cable could definitly solve the problem.
The solder getting week on your board is the RESULT of the connector overheating. If the solder would be the problem then the burn marks would be lower at the board surface.
Moreover you solder showed it has melted! A cold solder would not cause melted solder, because then the cold solder would have healed itself!
Your pictures clearly show the problem is in the middle of the connector, not at the board.
I haven't told that in my case the connector pin pulled itself from the board after the tin got liquid, cutting of the heat bed of.
The thermal runnaway reacted to the heat bed dropping low while being supposedly powered.
So we two had almost the same case of connector failing.
Disecting my failed connector clearly show that the heat center was at the connection between the two connector metal parts. So it's the contact itself.
What I havn't measured yet is the actual current draw of the bed, but I have a power meter at the socket and that shows around 260W total when the bed starts. That excludes the hotend (Slic3r code starts head bed first), but includess the motors and base electronics.
Assuming 230W for bed, I get around 0.85 Ohm bed and ~16A current. Agreed, thats realy stressing to the max.