rostock 301 calibration

[johnzetland]

hi guys ,just so you know I am complete newbie to 3d printing before I start ,I bought a rostock301 and have constructed it , software / firm ware etc all seems to work ,my problem is I did all the level testing and when I try to print the test the extruder raises on the x side of the plate causing it to go to string. I know you drolly laughing cause I just not did something simple , but please can someone help me out here lol , and please explain like I'm stupid lol .
thanks in advance

[William]

Hi,buddy
Don't worry.You can refer to this guide:

Rostock 301 leveling guide.zip

(380.41 KiB) Downloaded 1965 times

[johnzetland]

hi William
thanks , I have followed the guide , still not right no matter what I do , this is what it looks like when printing. Any suggestions ?

[johnzetland]

that was with the setting on the instruction guide for printer and slicer , the second picture is with the downloaded settings for the slicer in the manual.

I done the calibration as per the instructions , any ideas guys ?

[William]

Looks like you didn't level the bed perfectly...Try it again.Make sure you level all the spots on the bed mentioned in the guide.
In addition,i think you'd better add some blue tape(adhesive paper) on your heatbed,not print on the Aluminum plate directly.

[MikaëlV]

What about beds that aren't level themselves? My bed is hollow in the middle!
Referring to the levelling guide of Geeetech: I don't get why first you have to level 4 points and next in the first layer chapter, you have start fiddling with the screws of the bed itself - these obviously mess up your original points again??

I'm ordering a glass plate - I assume these things are level due to their manufacturing process and will try again?
http://www.banggood.com/220mm-x-3mm-3D- ... 78559.html

Any tips from you guys on how to level?

PS: should I see the delta radius as some unitless correction factor, or is it to be interpreted as a value in milimeters like "if you have a 2mm gap after points #2-3-4 are well aligned, then you can change the delta radius 2 full steps e.g. from 89 to 91?"

[mshievitz]

It's not really a "level" issue. It's a "tram" issue. The build needs to be as square and true as possible, but after that is done, the math inside the controller needs to be given a "reality check".

The parameters need to be adjusted to insure the coordinates the head is moving to stay parallel to the plate in all directions.

See:
http://minow.blogspot.com

[MikaëlV]

Hi,
could you point me in the right direction concerning bed levelling? I've read and followed the levelling guide, but my printer is constantly off.
I've checked X/Y/Zsteps/mm, I've tuned rod lengths (all measuring 196mm from screw center to screw center), I've updated the diagonal rod in the printer itself to 196, smooth offset to 160, effector offset updated fro, 33 to 36 and delta carriage offset to 33 (this seems in line with G2S)
After following levelling guide I have perfect points 2 - 3 - 4 and 1 (with delta radius to 93.1 for me).
Unfortunately the points radially opposed to the towers are not correct! (so radially opposed to the points 2-3-4 from the levelling guide - lets call these points 2'-3'-4')
The printhead always comes 0.2mm above the point diagonally opposed to the Z tower (near the LCD), 0.7mm above the bed opposed to the X tower and 0.9 above the bed opposed to the Y tower.
Even when I adjust the screws underneath the bed itself with those values, next do a recalibration (cause adjusting the screws under the bed offset the points 2-3-4-1 again), then those points are again off with the same values.
So the SW seems to move my head in a quite straight line between the calibrated points 2-1, 3-1, 4-1 (the head stays in paperwidth from the bed), but the head moves away from the bed over the lines 1 to 2', 1 to 3', 1 to 4'
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Mikael

[MikaëlV]

Have a look at http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,7 ... msg-736152 too!
I find this procedure much clearer than the Geeetech one.

What is missing from Geeetech procedure is some other parameters that can be wrong and need tweekeing - like the Delta_Diagonal_Rod.
When I vary that parameter, the diagonal counterpoints changes - I've set Delta_Diagonal_Rod to the length were I have least imbalance for the 6 points 2-3-4-2'-3'-4'

For me Diagonal Rod to 199 and Delta Radius to 93.1 works - taking into account that when I measure my rods from center to center, they all are 197mm --- except the ones at the Ztower, these I made 0.5mm longer (twisted the 'eye' half a turn on one side, such that both 'eyes' line up again). From that moment on I had a 'fairly' levelled bed.
I have not tried out a large print yet - testing the limits of all points of the bed - but I hope with a couple of layers of tape also that can be 'tweeked'

If anybody has other parameters or mechanical adjustments to share that influence bed-levelling: please submit them.

Another importan realisation for me to speed up leveling was that point 1. doesn't vary when you change the delta_radius parameter.
Geeetech suggests that you align 1. as last point - requiring you to go over 2-3-4 again, but when you first align 1., then you don't need to redo 1. each cycle.
(see reprap link to use Zoffset for that)

[Lami René]

Hello MikaëlV,
Bonjour MikaëlV,

You can find the original text into English following this original French text.

Vous trouverez le texte original traduit en anglais à la suite du présent texte original en français.

Pour la tige à 197mm, faite pivoter une des deux rotules de 1/2 tour ou 1 tour complet pour quelle soit aussi à 199mm. C'est vraiment important que les 6 tiges diagonales soient de la même longueur !

Cordialement,

L'ami René
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Hello MikaëlV,

Excuse me, I am unilingual francophone and I use Google translator to translate the texts of the forum in French and to write to you in English. Thank you for your understanding and your indulgence for these texts translated mechanically!

For the rod to 197mm, rotate one of the two balls of 1/2 turn or 1 complete turn for that also to 199mm. It is really important that the 6 diagonal rods are the same length!

Cordially,

The friend René