prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2015 9:35 am
prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
This topic is currently in BETA phase and will be updated with further information and photographs
This topic will cover issues that will cause problems such as:
Z axis not moving, seizing, stopping, stuttering
Driven wheel / drive wheel not turning X axis belt seizing slipping Y axis belt seizing slipping
LCD panel not working / SD slot not working
Install working firmware malfunctioning firmware improper firmware
Installation of drivers
Filament not loading properly feeding improperly filament not feeding filament jammed mk8 jam
So you have built your new prusa i3 x and it is NOT working, or NOT working to your expectations - please follow this list in order as you will need
to do EVERYTHING on this list before using your prusa i3x after assembly
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR MACHINE IS FULLY POWERED OFF BEFORE MAKING ANY MANUAL ADJUSTMENTS OR RESEEDING CONNECTIONS
1. LCD screen is unresponsive
Fix - Switch the place it is plugged in with the other cable coming off the back. Most guides will tell you to plug them into the mainboard exactly
backwards. there are only two, so just switch them.
see wiring section step 27 http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildin ... /?ALLSTEPS
EXP1 and EXP2 are the ports on the back of the LCD
LCD and SD are the ports on the mainboard
EXP1 (LEFT) is LCD
EXP2 (RIGHT) is SD
OTHER GUIDES ARE WRONG. THIS IS VERIFIED INFORMATION - I OWN THE PRUSA I3X.
2. Drivers aren't installing upon plug in
Fix - Enable automatic driver updates. Link below for windows and mac OS.
http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/ ... he_drivers
3. Can't find proper firmware / Machine is alarming buzzing loud when I turn it on and won't stop making the sound until turned off
Fix - you need working updated firmware. Link is below. If you want to customize your firmware (motor speed etc) start with this file as a base.
PROTIP - save this firmware as an original file somewhere as a backup incase you mess up your firmware and need to reset it
THREAD - http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 10&t=17046
I3X FIRMWARE DIRECT DOWNLOAD (str8 from geeetech.com!) - www.geeetech.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1584
use the arduino IDE to upload the firmware to your machine. google a guide if you aren't familiar with the program. (it's copy and paste don't worry!)
4. Z axis isn't moving, isn't working right, is seizing in certain areas
Fix-
1. SMOOTH RODS LOCKED UP - Use the file provided in the build kit to file the holes for the smooth rods larger. the smooth rods should go
through their carriage including the bearing without fighting it. if you have to shove it through the unit, keep filing. it should glide right through
on both sides.
2. THREADED RODS IMPERFECT - Straighten by hand if neccessary. roll on table / put against a straight object to determine straightness.
Examine threading for imperfections. Apply WD-40 or anti-seize lubricant to threading and manually thread the rod a few times through the bad areas
3. When the rods are working - level the X axis. if it isn't perfectly level the motors will not work in unison! Once it is level and you can
move the axis with the motors with manual control in repetier host (or chosen program) continue to move the x axis up and down and work the threaded
rod for a couple hours applying more WD-40 as needed. when it is working smoothly all the way from the bottom to top you are ready to print.
4. X axis drive wheel is scraping against the body because the screw is too long - see NUMBER 5 - DRIVE WHEEL RE-ASSEMBLY
5. Y axis isn't moving, isn't working right / X axis isn't moving, isn't working right, Z axis isn't moving, isn't working right / belts are slipping
and seizing / print quality is bad and I don't know why
FIX - RE ASSEMBLE THE DRIVEN WHEELS - The X and Y axis use belts. the belt goes on the motor at one end and a drive wheel at the other. Make sure
your belts are properly sized and when you tighten the drive wheel unit to the body it makes the belt tighten. The drive wheels need to be re-
assembled. The instructions call for an m4x25 screw to hold the wheel in place. However, this is too long for the X axis and will scrape against the Z
axis causing the Z axis to seize or stop. Follow the directions and photos below to fix BOTH of your drive wheel assemblies. I REPEAT - BUILD BOTH OF
YOUR DRIVE WHEEL ASSEMBLIES LIKE THIS INSTEAD OF THE WAY THE DIRECTIONS SAYS!!!!
1. use needle nose pliers or something like them to space the drive wheel holder a little further out. be careful not to break it. just a
little pressure will bend the part. try to heat it up with a heat gun or hair drier if you want to make it slightly more pliable before bending.
2. The bearing / wheel assembly should now slip in and out of the holder with no issue, but the gap shouldnt be too big. (see picture)
3. Replace the m4x25 screw and nut with an M3x20 screw and matching nut. When you tighten the screw down, make sure that it tightens TO the
holder, and does not TIGHTEN the holder itself. the bearing drive wheel assembly should now turn freely. Re install both of them. If you used an m4x25
you will get marks as seen in the picture below from it scraping your Z axis when trying to move up and down
6. I can't figure out how to load the filament / the filament is jammed
1. remove your fan and heat sink with a screw driver
2. press the lever on the front of the extruder, watch it move the bearing. this is how it locks the filament to the motor.
3. view the picture below, this is probably why you can't get filament through properly the first time (from thread
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 14&t=15988)
4. now that you know how it works, heat the extruder up, press the lever, feed the filament through the hole, keep pushing it until you see it
coming out of the other end melted. it takes a good amount of force, but don't try to push it through too fast for it to melt. remember its much
easier to push through if you hold the lever down because of the way it grabs the filament.
5. Zero your printer (0,0,0 is when each axis is next to the end stop) and print a test cube! enjoy!
feel free to post or ask questions here I will check back when I can and help as much as I can with anyone who is trying to set up their prusa i3 x.
remember this process is going to take you a week not a day so be patient and do it right the first time.
This topic will cover issues that will cause problems such as:
Z axis not moving, seizing, stopping, stuttering
Driven wheel / drive wheel not turning X axis belt seizing slipping Y axis belt seizing slipping
LCD panel not working / SD slot not working
Install working firmware malfunctioning firmware improper firmware
Installation of drivers
Filament not loading properly feeding improperly filament not feeding filament jammed mk8 jam
So you have built your new prusa i3 x and it is NOT working, or NOT working to your expectations - please follow this list in order as you will need
to do EVERYTHING on this list before using your prusa i3x after assembly
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR MACHINE IS FULLY POWERED OFF BEFORE MAKING ANY MANUAL ADJUSTMENTS OR RESEEDING CONNECTIONS
1. LCD screen is unresponsive
Fix - Switch the place it is plugged in with the other cable coming off the back. Most guides will tell you to plug them into the mainboard exactly
backwards. there are only two, so just switch them.
see wiring section step 27 http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildin ... /?ALLSTEPS
EXP1 and EXP2 are the ports on the back of the LCD
LCD and SD are the ports on the mainboard
EXP1 (LEFT) is LCD
EXP2 (RIGHT) is SD
OTHER GUIDES ARE WRONG. THIS IS VERIFIED INFORMATION - I OWN THE PRUSA I3X.
2. Drivers aren't installing upon plug in
Fix - Enable automatic driver updates. Link below for windows and mac OS.
http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/ ... he_drivers
3. Can't find proper firmware / Machine is alarming buzzing loud when I turn it on and won't stop making the sound until turned off
Fix - you need working updated firmware. Link is below. If you want to customize your firmware (motor speed etc) start with this file as a base.
PROTIP - save this firmware as an original file somewhere as a backup incase you mess up your firmware and need to reset it
THREAD - http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 10&t=17046
I3X FIRMWARE DIRECT DOWNLOAD (str8 from geeetech.com!) - www.geeetech.com/forum/download/file.php?id=1584
use the arduino IDE to upload the firmware to your machine. google a guide if you aren't familiar with the program. (it's copy and paste don't worry!)
4. Z axis isn't moving, isn't working right, is seizing in certain areas
Fix-
1. SMOOTH RODS LOCKED UP - Use the file provided in the build kit to file the holes for the smooth rods larger. the smooth rods should go
through their carriage including the bearing without fighting it. if you have to shove it through the unit, keep filing. it should glide right through
on both sides.
2. THREADED RODS IMPERFECT - Straighten by hand if neccessary. roll on table / put against a straight object to determine straightness.
Examine threading for imperfections. Apply WD-40 or anti-seize lubricant to threading and manually thread the rod a few times through the bad areas
3. When the rods are working - level the X axis. if it isn't perfectly level the motors will not work in unison! Once it is level and you can
move the axis with the motors with manual control in repetier host (or chosen program) continue to move the x axis up and down and work the threaded
rod for a couple hours applying more WD-40 as needed. when it is working smoothly all the way from the bottom to top you are ready to print.
4. X axis drive wheel is scraping against the body because the screw is too long - see NUMBER 5 - DRIVE WHEEL RE-ASSEMBLY
5. Y axis isn't moving, isn't working right / X axis isn't moving, isn't working right, Z axis isn't moving, isn't working right / belts are slipping
and seizing / print quality is bad and I don't know why
FIX - RE ASSEMBLE THE DRIVEN WHEELS - The X and Y axis use belts. the belt goes on the motor at one end and a drive wheel at the other. Make sure
your belts are properly sized and when you tighten the drive wheel unit to the body it makes the belt tighten. The drive wheels need to be re-
assembled. The instructions call for an m4x25 screw to hold the wheel in place. However, this is too long for the X axis and will scrape against the Z
axis causing the Z axis to seize or stop. Follow the directions and photos below to fix BOTH of your drive wheel assemblies. I REPEAT - BUILD BOTH OF
YOUR DRIVE WHEEL ASSEMBLIES LIKE THIS INSTEAD OF THE WAY THE DIRECTIONS SAYS!!!!
1. use needle nose pliers or something like them to space the drive wheel holder a little further out. be careful not to break it. just a
little pressure will bend the part. try to heat it up with a heat gun or hair drier if you want to make it slightly more pliable before bending.
2. The bearing / wheel assembly should now slip in and out of the holder with no issue, but the gap shouldnt be too big. (see picture)
3. Replace the m4x25 screw and nut with an M3x20 screw and matching nut. When you tighten the screw down, make sure that it tightens TO the
holder, and does not TIGHTEN the holder itself. the bearing drive wheel assembly should now turn freely. Re install both of them. If you used an m4x25
you will get marks as seen in the picture below from it scraping your Z axis when trying to move up and down
6. I can't figure out how to load the filament / the filament is jammed
1. remove your fan and heat sink with a screw driver
2. press the lever on the front of the extruder, watch it move the bearing. this is how it locks the filament to the motor.
3. view the picture below, this is probably why you can't get filament through properly the first time (from thread
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 14&t=15988)
4. now that you know how it works, heat the extruder up, press the lever, feed the filament through the hole, keep pushing it until you see it
coming out of the other end melted. it takes a good amount of force, but don't try to push it through too fast for it to melt. remember its much
easier to push through if you hold the lever down because of the way it grabs the filament.
5. Zero your printer (0,0,0 is when each axis is next to the end stop) and print a test cube! enjoy!
feel free to post or ask questions here I will check back when I can and help as much as I can with anyone who is trying to set up their prusa i3 x.
remember this process is going to take you a week not a day so be patient and do it right the first time.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:29 am
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
prusa i3 m201
Should the drive wheel spin freely even though we tighten the drive wheel (with its bearings) to the driven wheel holder? MR84zz + driving wheel.
the youtube video makes it seems like it should spin.
My bearings wont pop in like in the video, therefore my drive wheel doesn't spin like in the video (not at all actually).
thanks
PS: Where are the pictures referenced in this "common issues" post? Particularly related to the bearings and the drive wheel assembly.
Should the drive wheel spin freely even though we tighten the drive wheel (with its bearings) to the driven wheel holder? MR84zz + driving wheel.
the youtube video makes it seems like it should spin.
My bearings wont pop in like in the video, therefore my drive wheel doesn't spin like in the video (not at all actually).
thanks
PS: Where are the pictures referenced in this "common issues" post? Particularly related to the bearings and the drive wheel assembly.
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
yes the drive wheel should spin or the belt on it would not move. Try to expend the wheel holder a little bit so the wheel will spin.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:37 am
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
I have just built the I have the prusa i3 X with alluminium plate and the screws sit proud so the x stop does not correspond with the print area (which I assume is inside the area of the four screws. The y-axis end stop does not reach the bed. Is there something I have assembled wrong?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
do you have a picture for this? and did you get the correct building instructions?
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2016 2:37 am
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
I did not get any instructions with the printer but I used the ones online for the prusa I3 X and youtube videos.
unfortunately i seem unable to upload pictures. keep getting the error that the image must be at least 0 pixels wide and 0 pixels high
unfortunately i seem unable to upload pictures. keep getting the error that the image must be at least 0 pixels wide and 0 pixels high
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
Hello, I just finish to assamble my Prusa I3 X, I noted in some videos the home position for the X axis is on the left, however when I clic Home X in the software the X axis (with the extruder) moves to the right. As the endstop is on the left it can not get it so there is a "RRRRRRRRRRR" sound, I think because the X axis is still trying to go to the right but there is no more room. What is the problem? is the X axis home position to the left or to the right? THANKS.
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
the motor direction is reversed, check out this link:
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 17&t=17037
http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 17&t=17037
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
Thanks buy I have two problems:
1) the LCD is green, it does not display anything; I switched tha cables and there is not any change.
2) I download Arduino 1.0.1, selected Mega2560, COM4 and tried to verify the firmware but I got this error message:
"core.a(main.cpp.o): In function `main':
C:\Users\DOS\Downloads\Arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/main.cpp:5: undefined reference to `setup'
C:\Users\DOS\Downloads\Arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/main.cpp:15: undefined reference to `loop'"
Where is the mistake?
1) the LCD is green, it does not display anything; I switched tha cables and there is not any change.
2) I download Arduino 1.0.1, selected Mega2560, COM4 and tried to verify the firmware but I got this error message:
"core.a(main.cpp.o): In function `main':
C:\Users\DOS\Downloads\Arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/main.cpp:5: undefined reference to `setup'
C:\Users\DOS\Downloads\Arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1-windows\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/main.cpp:15: undefined reference to `loop'"
Where is the mistake?
Re: prusa I3 X - common issues - diagnostics and calibration
Now the printer does not respond; I do not have too much time to work on it; If I have to wait one day to get an answer, then another day to get another answer I fell I am wasting my time. Is there any faster way you can help to configure my printer????