I3 Pro C kit issues

[dftaylor]

I am in the process of assembling my recently delivered kit. I am generally pleased with the quality of the kit but I do have a couple of problems.
1. The holes in the X-axis left and right ends, M1 and M2, are under sized and the 8mm X-axis rods will not go in. I have ordered an 8mm reamer to open the holes up but you might check your process so others don't have this problem.
2. My power supply is damaged, see attached pic. The box it came in is in perfect shape so I can only assume it came from your supplier this way. It looks to be only mechanical and I think I can fix it but I don't want to void the warranty by opening the case. Please either send a replacement or give me assurance that if I try to fix it you will still honor the warranty if doesn't work.

[Mark]

we have checked the holes and they are all fit, I think you can use a smooth file to polish it a little then it will be ok, not too much or it will affect the movements.
And the PSU, you can try it first, seems it can still work. If it is defective indeed, you can contact the sales to replace it.

[Ruffturn]

I have just completed the assembly if the Acrylic I3 Pro C and had several issues with the instructions as well. Mainly, all of the x-carriage fixtures in the instructions were plastic while my parts were all stamped, folded steel. I had to "fly by the seat of my pants" through quite a bit of it. Actually, there were several changes here and there that weren't reflected in the instructions. (don't get me wrong, overall, I'm really pleased with the kit)

Once I was finally able to connect to the GT2560, I found that the Z-axis was binding so badly that it wouldn't move. This is in spite of adding some dry powder graphite lubricant to the upper Z-axis support holes which I knew were tight. I took them off, used a step drill to increase the size of the threaded rod holes only slightly (I wouldn't recommend to do this for the holes for the smooth rods) and used a countersink bit to add a chamfer to the lower side of the holes to make assembly easier.. While the upper supports were off, I found that the left hand smooth rod wouldn't return to the lower hole when lifted and then lowered through the linear bearing. Each time it "landed" toward the center and the front of the printer. With some rather stout needle nosed pliers, I was able to tweak the left hand linear bearing mounting flange to where the smooth rod would center itself in the lower hole. I also added a few drops of household oil to the Z-axis nuts and the top anchor plates (something I really didn't want to do for hygienic reasons). The result was an extremely smooth movement of the Z-axis.

[dftaylor]

I rechecked the holes and they were a little undersized, just enough to keep the smooth rods from going in. I reamed them by hand with an 8mm reamer and the rods slid in easily and with no play. Probably just paint or a small burr but present on every hole.

I also took the cover off of the power supply, cutting the warranty sticker, and by loosening the heat sink clamp was able to get the circuit board back in the correct position. I put everything back together and, when powered up later, it worked fine.

In completing the assembly the only other problem I had was with the right top corner bracket. (the left one fit nicely) It was a little snug in places and had to filed and scraped a little to get it to fit. I got careless and broke off one corner of the bracket getting it off for some adjustment. They are not kidding when they warn you to be careful when fitting these parts together. Don't think it will affect the operation of the printer.

The completed assembly looked and felt good and sturdy. I ran the motors to home and all axes moved. I have one motor running backwards but I know this can be fixed in the config file.

So far I'm a happy customer. Can't wait to get a little time to try it out.