G2s compatible Jhead list
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
I am working on a modified spider and bracket for a 3rd party dual metal hotend. Please see this post: https://plus.google.com/photos/11826853 ... 9803450657
I will update in this community after I get it printed/working.
I will update in this community after I get it printed/working.
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Google+ community for Geetech Delta printers
Google+ community for Geetech Delta printers
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
Looks great! But might it be too heavy for the extruder and possibly affect the accuracy?
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
It doesn't feel that much heavier than 2 extruders. I believe the heat sink is made of aluminum.
I didn't think to weigh it before hooking it up, but I will try and weigh it when I attach it to a more permanent mount. It won't currently make the accuracy of my printer any worse, if you get my drift.
I didn't think to weigh it before hooking it up, but I will try and weigh it when I attach it to a more permanent mount. It won't currently make the accuracy of my printer any worse, if you get my drift.
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Google+ community for Geetech Delta printers
Google+ community for Geetech Delta printers
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
Well ,that would be great. Hope to see your work soon!
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
One of my hotends on my G2S melted the PFTE plastic as well when I set it to 240C. I need to place order for a replacement and perhaps spare. What is the correct model/ part number? Also what should be the max temperature to set for this hotend? 240C is recommended for ABS.
I am interested in the J-head all metal short hotend as well. If the current bracket is not suitable do you have one that I can print? Please advise if 0.3 or 0.4 is better. My G2S came with 0.3. Thank you.
I am interested in the J-head all metal short hotend as well. If the current bracket is not suitable do you have one that I can print? Please advise if 0.3 or 0.4 is better. My G2S came with 0.3. Thank you.
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
Flamtap, your hotend looks like the chimera. Will be interested in seeing getting it set up.
Geeetech, I need to reprint a few of the printed parts that are broken at where the rods are on both the carriage and hotend platform. My print quality is not good. What is the best slicer and repetier host setting for the stock G2S to print ABS? I git mixed results at 210C. Also, my vertical dimension (Z) on a 20mm test cube is slightly less than X and Y which are both accurate. Where do I correct in the setting or the firmware? Thanks.
Geeetech, I need to reprint a few of the printed parts that are broken at where the rods are on both the carriage and hotend platform. My print quality is not good. What is the best slicer and repetier host setting for the stock G2S to print ABS? I git mixed results at 210C. Also, my vertical dimension (Z) on a 20mm test cube is slightly less than X and Y which are both accurate. Where do I correct in the setting or the firmware? Thanks.
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
To reprint the plastic parts, what infill % should I use for ABS? Are the plastic parts that are shipped with G2S made of PLA or ABS? Thanks.
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
The settings for different materials are quite different , I'll attach a file for you to reference.(use PLA)
The parts for G2S are made of PLA, you can also use ABS.
The parts for G2S are made of PLA, you can also use ABS.
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
I do not have PLA now which I will order. What is the setting for ABS? Please reply to my earlier questions especially the vertical dimension accuracy. I can't print the plastic parts if there are inaccuracies. Sorry to keep bugging but I do need to get good after struggling more than 2 months before I can get it to print.
Re: G2s compatible Jhead list
"the vertical dimension accuracy"
It is normal that the dimension of the printed objects has an offset within 0.3mm. What's the offset of your Z axis?
And you can make a mark on the filament, and manual ectrude 10mm, measure the actual extrude length to see if it is 10mm.
If not you can change the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT according to the actual length and calculate the real steps.
It is normal that the dimension of the printed objects has an offset within 0.3mm. What's the offset of your Z axis?
And you can make a mark on the filament, and manual ectrude 10mm, measure the actual extrude length to see if it is 10mm.
If not you can change the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT according to the actual length and calculate the real steps.
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