Problems on my geeetech i3B
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2015 4:21 am
Problems on my geeetech i3B
1)The X, Y and z axis do not work on (-) they only go forward (+), 2) the extruder goes up 4 mm when starting printing separating from the bed, 3)After doing the configuration on Slicer, when I start the printing, the extruder goes to the right(+) and tries to go out of the bed making the belt run, when I look at the position on the X and Y axis it is like 1400 both ways even do the bed is only 200 x 200, I did check all the settings, what am I missing? Help please!!!!
Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
hi,you try to check if the wire is connected correctly especially the endstop wire.Maybe the port of endstop is in poor contact.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2015 4:21 am
Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
Hi, the connection prongs for the end stops are 3, Sig, (+) and Gnd., I do have all of them on their respective (+) and Gnd. Is that correct?
Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
Could you take some photos and let me check.Or please refer to the link(step 6).furniturecreations wrote:Hi, the connection prongs for the end stops are 3, Sig, (+) and Gnd., I do have all of them on their respective (+) and Gnd. Is that correct?
link: http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/ ... tion#Step6
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Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
These are the pictures of the end stops and the connections on the Sanguinololu board
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Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
hi,you connect the endstop wire to wrong slot,the wire should connect to "sig" and "-".please see the picture where i mark a red circle.
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Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
I will try that thanks.
- RandyBonnette
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:00 pm
Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
Started having issues with the Y axis recently. It is going one way very smoothly, however it is struggling to go back. I'm trying to adjust the motors current, but it doesn't help.
How to properly adjust the Geeetech i3B printer driver current?
Randy Bonnette
3D printing classroom essaydune.com
How to properly adjust the Geeetech i3B printer driver current?
Randy Bonnette
3D printing classroom essaydune.com
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2021 3:47 am
Re: Problems on my geeetech i3B
I recently purchased a Geeetech i3 and am experiencing some difficulties. The first is the extruder stepper not turning. Every thing was working properly until I calibrated my E steps. I was experiencing what appeared to be over extrusion so I did some research and followed the instructions for calibration. To my surprise I was 3mm short on the 100 mm test. After calculating the new E step parameter I flashed the eprom from the configurations tab on Repitier Host. When I closed the program and later restarted it the extruder would no longer feed. I went to the configuration tab and hit restore to factory default and all worked well again. I decided to adjust the calibration in the slicer settings under extruder multiplier. This again worked fine until I shut down the program and restarted it? Now every time I print I have to hit the restore to factory default settings in the configuration tab to get the extruder stepper to work?
I went to the (dread of dreads) Geeetech support forum to research the problem and found a sticky at the top of the extruder section. The post is from the tech department stating that this is a Marlin firmware problem and to download the attached file and re-flash the firmware. My problem is I have know Idea how to do that. There were some other references in another section about firmware that stated you should download Arduino 1.0.1. I have also looked at the wiki and the instructions are for configuration from scratch. The file that was on the form is a folder labeled Marlin filled with a lot of files with no instructions on how to load this preconfigured file to the Arduino compiler. I am at a loss here as to what to do. The board is a gt2560 with ramps 1.4.
My second issue is over extrusion. Every thing I have read about calibration has no information about the nozzle itself. I was under the impression that I was supplied a .3 mm nozzle end but am now wondering if I received a larger one by mistake. When I manually extrude some plastic and measure it with my micrometer it is .0157 which is .4 mm? There are no markings on the nozzle and I am reluctant to heat the hot end, remove the nozzle and burn out the plastic. I do not have gage pins small enough to measure the diameter of the hole. I suppose I could try the reticle magnifier with the .001s scale?
As a machinist and having built a few cnc machines I have some reservations about the Z axis design of the I3 variant along with some other mechanical issues that I feel should be addressed. I suppose I should post those in the mechanical section along with some of the modifications I have already made.
I have two other minor questions. The first is about Home offsets: If you are familiar with a cnc the machines home position is at the x and y limits ( or end stops as they are referred to on printers?). From the machines home you would then set a work home offset at maybe 10mm from x and y for example. Is there a place to do this in Repitier Host, Slicer or Marlin with out having to edit the g-code for every file? The end stops are too far from the corner of the platter and I thought that changing the mechanical layout for the stops seemed like a patchwork fix that could be better solved by software?
Lastly, imagine if you will you are printing a box with no top. You design the box with a solid 3 layer bottom and top and a min of 3 layers for the perimeter. When I draw the box I have tried to make the thickness of the sides to be exactly 6 layers or less dimensionally. When I print the box it will do three inside and 3 outside layers and always followed by an infill layer in the center. Consequently there is no room for the center infill and the extruder will occasionally stall from too much back pressure. My question here is this a result of over extrusion on the outside layers and how can I prevent slicer from infilling between?
If you made it this far through my long post ....Thanks! If you have any input I would greatly appreciate the help. This started as a father son project in hopes of sparking some greater interest in drawing and programing for my son. He is 14 and has been excepted into an engineering academy for high school. I am hopping to give him a jump start and help to make the math more interesting through real world problems. He has ideas of things he would like to make and he will suffer through the means to get to the end (I hope). I told him that tenacity and perseverance start here!
I went to the (dread of dreads) Geeetech support forum to research the problem and found a sticky at the top of the extruder section. The post is from the tech department stating that this is a Marlin firmware problem and to download the attached file and re-flash the firmware. My problem is I have know Idea how to do that. There were some other references in another section about firmware that stated you should download Arduino 1.0.1. I have also looked at the wiki and the instructions are for configuration from scratch. The file that was on the form is a folder labeled Marlin filled with a lot of files with no instructions on how to load this preconfigured file to the Arduino compiler. I am at a loss here as to what to do. The board is a gt2560 with ramps 1.4.
My second issue is over extrusion. Every thing I have read about calibration has no information about the nozzle itself. I was under the impression that I was supplied a .3 mm nozzle end but am now wondering if I received a larger one by mistake. When I manually extrude some plastic and measure it with my micrometer it is .0157 which is .4 mm? There are no markings on the nozzle and I am reluctant to heat the hot end, remove the nozzle and burn out the plastic. I do not have gage pins small enough to measure the diameter of the hole. I suppose I could try the reticle magnifier with the .001s scale?
As a machinist and having built a few cnc machines I have some reservations about the Z axis design of the I3 variant along with some other mechanical issues that I feel should be addressed. I suppose I should post those in the mechanical section along with some of the modifications I have already made.
I have two other minor questions. The first is about Home offsets: If you are familiar with a cnc the machines home position is at the x and y limits ( or end stops as they are referred to on printers?). From the machines home you would then set a work home offset at maybe 10mm from x and y for example. Is there a place to do this in Repitier Host, Slicer or Marlin with out having to edit the g-code for every file? The end stops are too far from the corner of the platter and I thought that changing the mechanical layout for the stops seemed like a patchwork fix that could be better solved by software?
Lastly, imagine if you will you are printing a box with no top. You design the box with a solid 3 layer bottom and top and a min of 3 layers for the perimeter. When I draw the box I have tried to make the thickness of the sides to be exactly 6 layers or less dimensionally. When I print the box it will do three inside and 3 outside layers and always followed by an infill layer in the center. Consequently there is no room for the center infill and the extruder will occasionally stall from too much back pressure. My question here is this a result of over extrusion on the outside layers and how can I prevent slicer from infilling between?
If you made it this far through my long post ....Thanks! If you have any input I would greatly appreciate the help. This started as a father son project in hopes of sparking some greater interest in drawing and programing for my son. He is 14 and has been excepted into an engineering academy for high school. I am hopping to give him a jump start and help to make the math more interesting through real world problems. He has ideas of things he would like to make and he will suffer through the means to get to the end (I hope). I told him that tenacity and perseverance start here!