Mounting blower fan (nozzle position)

[Darkmind]

Hello,

As it was suggested in one of my question in this forum - the blower fan is essential to avoid warping of printed parts. That actually helped as even with a simple clip it already looks better.

However, I want to add a proper blower fan and printed one of the mounting parts (there're several variations). For example:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2101896

I noticed that all variations assume that the nozzle is located right in the middle between the screw holes (all designs are symmetric). However, in my case it's located way far to the left (see the photo below) and I don't see straight away how to adjust it to the middle. Because of that I cannot mount any of such parts.

Is it the case for every one else or I did some incorrect assembly? I can't find any similar concerns from other people

[Darkmind]

I've just found that some other parts actually do have some bending. However, they cannot be mounted because the thermistor block faces left by default.

How does one turn the thermistor block 90 degrees CCW? So that the wires go to the right, instead of to the front?

[William]

Hi，it can be rotated directly.

[GAQ]

Hi,
When I first printed a blower housing downloaded from Thingiverse, I discovered that my machine also had the heater block too far out to the left with the wires coming out of the front...
I was new to the Geeetech printer and assumed that was just the way the extruder was now shipped...
I left the printer as it was built and I simply altered the air duct design so that it would fit my machine.
I modified my design over time and incorporated the the fitting of a BL Touch...
You can see my design here...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650612
My printer now has version 6 fitted from June 2019. (See notes on Thingiverse)
This may well fit your machine, but you may not want the probe bracket.
I printed the last version with the bolted circle (See 2nd last photo) in PETG. No supports required as they're incorporated into the design. (Easily removed after printing)

[Darkmind]

Thanks! That's an interesting design, it's a pity I didn't manage to find it before. Nice holder for the filament on the photos, btw!

I solved my issue by turning the thermistor (extruder?) block 90 degrees. I couldn't do this by simply turning it (I was afraid to brake it or bend). However, after removing the heatsink and loosening the nut just beneath it (requires some force as well though), I was able to turn the extruder. Some Z-axis stopping adjustment was required after that, as even this small turn changed the level quite significantly (comparing to the layer height).

It's a pity that these steps are not included into the official assembly and tuning guide

[William]

Thanks! That's an interesting design, it's a pity I didn't manage to find it before. Nice holder for the filament on the photos, btw!

I solved my issue by turning the thermistor (extruder?) block 90 degrees. I couldn't do this by simply turning it (I was afraid to brake it or bend). However, after removing the heatsink and loosening the nut just beneath it (requires some force as well though), I was able to turn the extruder. Some Z-axis stopping adjustment was required after that, as even this small turn changed the level quite significantly (comparing to the layer height).

It's a pity that these steps are not included into the official assembly and tuning guide

Thank you for sharing, I will feedback to the relevant departments for improvement.

[GAQ]

Hi Darkmind,

You may find you have to take off the heater block quite a few times over the life of the printer...
Actually, mine is off at the moment as I destroyed the throat tube PTFE liner the other day and I'm awaiting a spare tube...

I was playing with the idea of running two fans, each cooling one side of the print beside the nozzle...
Naturally this leaves the heater wires coming out of the front.
I have printed exclusively with PETG since assembling this printer and wanted to see how two fans worked out - I've seen this on other printers.
I'm assuming the board will handle an extra fan being added, if it goes bang I'll know it couldn't !
With just the one fan, the ring at the bottom of the heater becomes very floppy due to its proximity to the heater block, particularly when I added the 'Gap' to be able to get at the nozzle easily. (Hence the last version had a bridge with an M3 bolt between the two sides for support.)
However, I don't know if it's the unusually warm and humid weather in the UK at the moment, but my study (Printer home) is certainly warmer than usual and I've been having a nightmare with printing spider webs, blobs and all manner of cosmetic disasters... I even reckon my inter layer adhesion is becoming rubbish as well. I'm going to blame the weather as the only other change I've done is upgrade the extruder to an all metal version and re-calibrated.
We'll see.

The spool holder works really well. - Not mine, but it was the second object(s) I ever printed. Downloaded from thingiverse...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:485438 (Thanks Marco aka 'loco' in Germany)
This spool holder does not foul the use of the SD card slot at all...
The first thing I had printed was a calibration cube (Several !)
I later beefed up the brackets in Tinkercad, but have never printed the later version as this one has never failed !
I even got to use the M8 rod that came with my printer as I upgraded to T8 leadscrews before first assembly.
The two filament guides came from other Thingiverse projects and do a perfect job of keeping the filament tangle free on the spool when the printer head moves to either extreme of the X axis.

Gerry

[siljathomas]

I surmise the extruder is delivered precisely. I left the printer during development and just changed the structure of the air cylinder to accommodate my machine.I changed my plan after some time and appeared as BL Touch