Hello.
I am at my wits end with this machine.
I bought my A10M in September 2019 and, after fixing several faults have still not been able to make consistent prints. Now the machine is operational again on its 3rd main board (V3.1) I have tried to level the bed manually, using 3d Touch/ BLTouch and all of the released Geeetech firmwares, and currently using the Marlin 2.0 Build B493 from Vert. In all cases the leveling process is completed satisfactorily yet when it comes to printing the nozzle is way too high or buries itself into the bed (Which is catastrophic for the bed when the temperatures are set for printing). I have tried using UBL and when the initial process is made the 25 measurements all descend the same amount (1.85mm) regardless of the Touch sensor trigger i.e. when the 25 measurements are made to map the bed sometimes I can pass 3 sheets of A4 paper under the nozzle, and at the other side of the table the A4 is a little tight with a single sheet of A4. The sensor (Both 3D Touch and BL Touch) operates but seems to sometimes just kisses the surface, and others it takes a very short time extra before triggering.
Clearly, it is not mapping the bed.
The resulting print always fails to adhere creating a birds nest effect, or the nozzle describes the shape into the bed surface. Operating the Babysteps or Z offset appears to have very little to no effect at all. Any thoughts/ help will be appreciated as it is otherwise going to spares. A link to the leveling and UBL tests are here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing
Best regards
Adrian
Unable to level the bed / make a print
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hi，we haven't tested Marlin2.0, it is recommended that you return to using the previous marlin version.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. 
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hi William.
Many thanks for responding. This issue happened some time ago shortly after the Motherboard failed, followed by two more boards. The problem was found to be some heatshrink that secures and protects the cables as they exit the board area and enters the protective sleeving had not been heated. This had moved allowing the Z stepper wire to rub on the sharp framework and short out as the cable moved in use. Since this was shrunk back in place no more motherboards have blown. However, I have this issue with the Z axis seeming to wander in use. I have tried every version of Geeetech Firmware on this forum for the A10M with the same results, and then tried Vert's firmware as it is highly regarded but sadly for me made no difference and now am on the first (No 3D Touch) firmware Marlin 1.1.8. as was how the machine was supplied. I have followed each set up video from Geeetech and get the same problem every time. I purchased this in late September 2019 and yet have not produced more than a few usable prints since it arrived and was built.
Best regards
Adrian
Many thanks for responding. This issue happened some time ago shortly after the Motherboard failed, followed by two more boards. The problem was found to be some heatshrink that secures and protects the cables as they exit the board area and enters the protective sleeving had not been heated. This had moved allowing the Z stepper wire to rub on the sharp framework and short out as the cable moved in use. Since this was shrunk back in place no more motherboards have blown. However, I have this issue with the Z axis seeming to wander in use. I have tried every version of Geeetech Firmware on this forum for the A10M with the same results, and then tried Vert's firmware as it is highly regarded but sadly for me made no difference and now am on the first (No 3D Touch) firmware Marlin 1.1.8. as was how the machine was supplied. I have followed each set up video from Geeetech and get the same problem every time. I purchased this in late September 2019 and yet have not produced more than a few usable prints since it arrived and was built.
Best regards
Adrian
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hi,
I have A10T and as you have problems with bed leveling and printing, but I think I manage to "fix" this and I have nice prints now. So here are some thoughts from my experince.
1. Installing Vert's Marlin 2.0 is what I've done also. I don't think you need to go to anything else. It works fine.
2. Enable UBL (if you haven't already).
3. Remove the springs from the bed and replace them with nuts and shims (I hope I'm using right word). I use 6 nuts per leg and I'm using shims to balance. My advice is to use OctoPrint's bed visualiser plugin. At least for me it helps a lot to see how to calibrate bed with shims.
4. Get a glass plate. I'm using one that I bought from Geeetech but actually I'm using it with the side without anything so it is pure glass. I'm using hairspray for adhesion, but also tested glue stick and Magigoo. It works. I'm using glass plate so it is really flat.
5. Follow https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/unif ... eling.html
6. Do not forget to use G29 J
6. Be sure to set right Z offset. Also I think that on the original Geeetech's firmware this z-offset and bed leveling is not working. So Vert's 2.0 is important.
This are the things that I made to make my A10T works fine. I hope this will help you, because I had similar issues like you (except the board, it works fine).
I have A10T and as you have problems with bed leveling and printing, but I think I manage to "fix" this and I have nice prints now. So here are some thoughts from my experince.
1. Installing Vert's Marlin 2.0 is what I've done also. I don't think you need to go to anything else. It works fine.
2. Enable UBL (if you haven't already).
3. Remove the springs from the bed and replace them with nuts and shims (I hope I'm using right word). I use 6 nuts per leg and I'm using shims to balance. My advice is to use OctoPrint's bed visualiser plugin. At least for me it helps a lot to see how to calibrate bed with shims.
4. Get a glass plate. I'm using one that I bought from Geeetech but actually I'm using it with the side without anything so it is pure glass. I'm using hairspray for adhesion, but also tested glue stick and Magigoo. It works. I'm using glass plate so it is really flat.
5. Follow https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/unif ... eling.html
6. Do not forget to use G29 J
6. Be sure to set right Z offset. Also I think that on the original Geeetech's firmware this z-offset and bed leveling is not working. So Vert's 2.0 is important.
This are the things that I made to make my A10T works fine. I hope this will help you, because I had similar issues like you (except the board, it works fine).
adrianh wrote: ↑Mon May 04, 2020 7:18 pmHi William.
Many thanks for responding. This issue happened some time ago shortly after the Motherboard failed, followed by two more boards. The problem was found to be some heatshrink that secures and protects the cables as they exit the board area and enters the protective sleeving had not been heated. This had moved allowing the Z stepper wire to rub on the sharp framework and short out as the cable moved in use. Since this was shrunk back in place no more motherboards have blown. However, I have this issue with the Z axis seeming to wander in use. I have tried every version of Geeetech Firmware on this forum for the A10M with the same results, and then tried Vert's firmware as it is highly regarded but sadly for me made no difference and now am on the first (No 3D Touch) firmware Marlin 1.1.8. as was how the machine was supplied. I have followed each set up video from Geeetech and get the same problem every time. I purchased this in late September 2019 and yet have not produced more than a few usable prints since it arrived and was built.
Best regards
Adrian
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hi Ruelke
Many thanks for posting your thoughts. I haven't gone quite your idea with a solid bed, but have fitted much stronger springs than standard. I did try Verts Marlin 2 firmware build 493 using both BL Touch and Non-probe versions with much the same effect. I did select UBL and did the mesh, and when I validated it the grid came out better than expected and quite even considering the probe did not appear to be doing the same on each touch. The problem comes after when doing a "Free" print, in this case a face visor and find that the nozzle touches the bed in one part and I can pass three post it notes under the nozzle when printing elsewhere on the table. It is as though it can map the bed (Which I took some time ensuring it was as level as possible) yet when it prints gives the impression it mapped the bed with areas turned down by over 0.9 mm. Trying to use the Z offset makes little difference as again the measurement tuned does not translate to the same measurement at the nozzle. Using "Babystep" does not do anything at all. This whole thing just seems to defy logic. Mechanicaly it is as good as can be set with no loose parts and free movement yet the x axis seems to stutter as it moves like it is dragging the nozzle only to find it is way above the table! I increased the voltage at the driver from 0.78v to 1.07 which helped slightly but did not stop this effect. Two "Experts" have had a go at setting it up and failed, both decided something is wrong with the machine hence my call for help/
Cheers
Adrian
Many thanks for posting your thoughts. I haven't gone quite your idea with a solid bed, but have fitted much stronger springs than standard. I did try Verts Marlin 2 firmware build 493 using both BL Touch and Non-probe versions with much the same effect. I did select UBL and did the mesh, and when I validated it the grid came out better than expected and quite even considering the probe did not appear to be doing the same on each touch. The problem comes after when doing a "Free" print, in this case a face visor and find that the nozzle touches the bed in one part and I can pass three post it notes under the nozzle when printing elsewhere on the table. It is as though it can map the bed (Which I took some time ensuring it was as level as possible) yet when it prints gives the impression it mapped the bed with areas turned down by over 0.9 mm. Trying to use the Z offset makes little difference as again the measurement tuned does not translate to the same measurement at the nozzle. Using "Babystep" does not do anything at all. This whole thing just seems to defy logic. Mechanicaly it is as good as can be set with no loose parts and free movement yet the x axis seems to stutter as it moves like it is dragging the nozzle only to find it is way above the table! I increased the voltage at the driver from 0.78v to 1.07 which helped slightly but did not stop this effect. Two "Experts" have had a go at setting it up and failed, both decided something is wrong with the machine hence my call for help/
Cheers
Adrian
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hmmmm... what is strange here is the fact that you are saying that validated grid is good. If it is good, then the printer is capable of printing. Or at least my logic is this. So when you are using UBL, are you sure you are loading right mesh in the gcode and UBL is enabled?
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hello Ruelke,
Many thanks for your thoughts. When I did the UBL I followed the steps through the menu and saved the settings before doing the actual mesh print. When I said it made a good print I was meaning that it was in one continuous piece. However, there were places where it was obvious that the nozzle was too low bubbling up the PLA and a very flat profile, then some areas with good adhesion and profile then others where the print had not adhered to or maybe touched the bed. It was not a progressive change from one side to another but seemingly random. This happens in the prints too where the print is random from one print to the next where the high and low points are. I have seen other similar issues reported by A20 users too. I do wonder if the cable damage at the start may still be giving issues as when the shorting occurred I insulated the cables that had the insulation worn off and shrunk the heatshrink section that hadn't been touched at manufacture and moved allowing the cables to scrape on the sharp corners of the frame where they exit the Motherboard box. It defies logic as you say, but it is an issue that I cannot seem to resolve.
Geeetech Tech support kept telling me via email to follow the video instructions using original firmware which I have done as carefully as possible time and time again. I even levelled the machine using a clinometer to ensure all axis were perpendicular to each other and the bed was level as possible which unfortunately did not improve the print test. Tech support have not replied to my last email sent on 08 May 20. The Google drive link at the end of my first posts shows the issues and tests done.
Cheers
Adrian
Many thanks for your thoughts. When I did the UBL I followed the steps through the menu and saved the settings before doing the actual mesh print. When I said it made a good print I was meaning that it was in one continuous piece. However, there were places where it was obvious that the nozzle was too low bubbling up the PLA and a very flat profile, then some areas with good adhesion and profile then others where the print had not adhered to or maybe touched the bed. It was not a progressive change from one side to another but seemingly random. This happens in the prints too where the print is random from one print to the next where the high and low points are. I have seen other similar issues reported by A20 users too. I do wonder if the cable damage at the start may still be giving issues as when the shorting occurred I insulated the cables that had the insulation worn off and shrunk the heatshrink section that hadn't been touched at manufacture and moved allowing the cables to scrape on the sharp corners of the frame where they exit the Motherboard box. It defies logic as you say, but it is an issue that I cannot seem to resolve.
Geeetech Tech support kept telling me via email to follow the video instructions using original firmware which I have done as carefully as possible time and time again. I even levelled the machine using a clinometer to ensure all axis were perpendicular to each other and the bed was level as possible which unfortunately did not improve the print test. Tech support have not replied to my last email sent on 08 May 20. The Google drive link at the end of my first posts shows the issues and tests done.
Cheers
Adrian
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
Hello,
Today I Installed another new BLTouch as per the "How to Set 3D Touch on GEEETECH A10M" video here: https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?download_id=31 and installed the firmware again from the same Geeetech web page. The only differences being:
1/ The video shows the Z stop switch to be plugged in and has the red LED illuminated which if this is done on my machine results in the Z axis continuing past the stops and the nozzle buries itself in the bed.
2/ Unless either (i) the BL Touch is disconnected and the Z stop works.
Or (ii) The Z stop is disconnected then the BL Touch works
The machine was set up as per the video with an active BL Touch and the settings saved (Z offset -2.15mm)
I levelled the four corners of the bed and A 4 paper, but when I did a test print the nozzle was pressing on the bed. I tried setting the Z offset to first + 5.95mm and the nozzle was still touching the bed. I then changed the Z offset to – 3.9mm with no apparent change. Checking Auto Home after has the nozzle resting after at 12.59mm. The A4 paper had very slight resistance under the nozzle when the BL Touch triggered both times during the Auto Home process.
Today I Installed another new BLTouch as per the "How to Set 3D Touch on GEEETECH A10M" video here: https://www.geeetech.com/download.html?download_id=31 and installed the firmware again from the same Geeetech web page. The only differences being:
1/ The video shows the Z stop switch to be plugged in and has the red LED illuminated which if this is done on my machine results in the Z axis continuing past the stops and the nozzle buries itself in the bed.
2/ Unless either (i) the BL Touch is disconnected and the Z stop works.
Or (ii) The Z stop is disconnected then the BL Touch works
The machine was set up as per the video with an active BL Touch and the settings saved (Z offset -2.15mm)
I levelled the four corners of the bed and A 4 paper, but when I did a test print the nozzle was pressing on the bed. I tried setting the Z offset to first + 5.95mm and the nozzle was still touching the bed. I then changed the Z offset to – 3.9mm with no apparent change. Checking Auto Home after has the nozzle resting after at 12.59mm. The A4 paper had very slight resistance under the nozzle when the BL Touch triggered both times during the Auto Home process.
Re: Unable to level the bed / make a print
At Geeetech Tech support advice on 8th May I have returned the Firmware to the 1.1.8 and took great care to level the bed and even verified alignment using a clinometer to ensure everything is as straight and level and as accurate as possible. The level corners was next and was found to be needing very little adjustment and with Z set to home I could pass a sheet of A4 under the nozzle with just a hint of friction. a test print was made and the print was aborted soon after it went through the home axis and started printing by gouging a channel in the magnetic bed before lifting enough to see a sliver of PLA on the bed, followed by more digging in. I went through the videos and procedures again to verify I had done everything as stated, but no joy on the next attempt.
I then tried updating the Firmware to 1.1.8+3D touch, fitted the sensor and went through the procedure step by step. The levelling process went well with it mapping the bed to within 0.014mm between highest and lowest points. Foolishly I thought all was well and tried a test print. The machine went through the home XY and Z procedure, then did the bed level check (G29) without issue. When it commenced the purge print it started to dig into the bed stalling the X axis in the process and melted a hole through the magnetic bed surface and the magnetic adhesive base to the alloy bed itself. I am really at a loss with this machine to have it working and would welcome any constructive help. Cheers
I then tried updating the Firmware to 1.1.8+3D touch, fitted the sensor and went through the procedure step by step. The levelling process went well with it mapping the bed to within 0.014mm between highest and lowest points. Foolishly I thought all was well and tried a test print. The machine went through the home XY and Z procedure, then did the bed level check (G29) without issue. When it commenced the purge print it started to dig into the bed stalling the X axis in the process and melted a hole through the magnetic bed surface and the magnetic adhesive base to the alloy bed itself. I am really at a loss with this machine to have it working and would welcome any constructive help. Cheers