Firmware for bltouch

[realmrcool]

Hello again

My i3 pro w works great.
Got some nice prints even some miniatures turned out really great.

Nevertheless I wanted to upgrade the printer with a bl touch.

1) is there a custom firmware for the pro w with bl touch implemented? I only found one for the pro b

2) is there a specific mount you would recommend?

3) is it even possible to use pre configured mount/firmware or do I need to calibrate it my self for sure?

4) im not 100% sure which version of the bl I'm having since the shop labeled it as 3.0 but the back of the sensor got 3.1 written on it. Does it matter for installation?


4) also I downloaded the cura profiles from geeetech but other than the screenshot there is no i3pro in the list.
I used the generic i3 profiles but at least the buildhight is different so not sure if anything else needs changing...


Thanks in advance for your help and all the work you doing

Kind regards realmrcool

[LLemon]

Hi,
I am also looking to configure Cura with my I3 Pro w profile, but I don't see it there and I don't know which profile to use from the list to substitute.

[realmrcool]

i used the prusar i3 from the prusar3d tab
changed z to 180mm and it works so far if you wanna start printing.

[LLemon]

Thanks... I’ll try that profile.
I was able to get a good print of 3D boaty using slic3r, but my bridging was crap, so I’ve been trying to fix that and things have gotten worse.
I tried cura with the a10 profile for geeetech, but the lines are way too thing and nothing is sticking to the bed.
I’m thinking I may need to go back to slic3r to get back to basics and see how that goes

[realmrcool]

using pla i hope?
i got really frustarted when i started abs first XD

for adhesion: use bedleveling and higher bed temperature, if its not working and u start getting frustrated use a glue stick it works wonders! just rub it on the bed right before the print starts.

for bridging: print a temperature calibration tower, you can find pre sliced so u dont have to worry calibrating the diffent temperatures.

you can change in cura the layer hight , specially the inithial layerhight might be an interesting option. if it still prints too thin you might have the bed leven to high and the nozzle squished the plastic on the glass and scrables it.


hope that helps

[LLemon]

Yeah, I am using PLA and I just got everything leveled.
I’ll try the higher bed temp. I heard somewhere to lower the temp and I’ve been using a raft to get things to stick.
I haven’t had much success with bridging. I did the spiral bridge test ok, but my raspberry pi case was a dud.
I’ll probably have to use supports for that.
I will search for the calibration tower. There are a lot of settings to tweak and there’s a lot to learn...

[realmrcool]

Yepp

If you print some cases make sure that bridge Support is on otherwise it will try to print too much overhang. (Setting can also be found in slic3r)

But i often get aggrovated with the autogenerated supports mesh mixer is a really cool way to generate tree Support:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Meshmi ... -Supports/


Specially for complex prints this i way better.

For adhesion did you try gluestick already? Mattrrhackes have nice tutorials on pla and abs:

https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... ing-in-pla


That helped me a lot including the gluestick. It super easy and cheap to apply and you just wash it off with warm water. You do not need it for every print but it makes certain prints possible

[realmrcool]

Also pla works much better with a cooling fan for the print.

Also use lower speed specially on the initial layer