A10M upgrade to 2 extruder 2 nozzle setup

[3D by EB]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000144309973.html

I order the xcr3d 2 in 1 out switching hot end last week. I like that it will not require any modification to the electrical. I will post some build updates when I get it installed.

I also ordered their 2 in 1 out mixing hot end. From the looks of it the mounting is the same. It should allow me to switch back to mixing in the future if I so desire.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000396086553.html

[crusader27529]

Just how do you switch filaments with the 'switch' 2-to-1 hot end?

[crusader27529]

I'm specifically asking about the previous post where they are replacing the original with this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000144309973.html

I order the xcr3d 2 in 1 out switching hot end last week. I like that it will not require any modification to the electrical. I will post some build updates when I get it installed.


It's a switching hot end(whatever that means) versus a mixing hot end, both 2 into 1.

[crusader27529]

Does anyone have a mount to use these replacement hot ends????

[3D by EB]

Ok, just finished my mount for the xcr3d hot ends. I'm posting to thingiverse right now. Will post a link here shortly.

[3D by EB]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4076158

Here is the mounting bracket as promised.

The slicer Gcode will most likely need to be modified to make the filament retract farther when it switches colors.

Once I get everything assembled and fully tested, I'll try out some 2 color prints and I will post my results with any necessary calibration changes.

[3D by EB]

I have the XCR3D switching hot end fully installed now. I'm running into overshoot on the hot end temp due to the smaller hot end size.

Looks like I'll need to compile a new firmware configuration so that I can adjust the Bang_Max and Pid_Max settings.

[crusader27529]

Thanks for the mount posting, but I have a question or two.

I'm using a BL touch sensor which mounts on the OEM cage over the original print head......will the cover fit over the new hot end, or if it won't, any idea how to mount the touch sensor?

Will the air deflector from the original mount function on the new hot end?

Also, once you update the code, what's the most foolproof way to upload the code without bricking the printer?

BTW, my new print head hasn't arrived yet, so there's no time issue, plus my printer is down because the hot end is so clogged.

Before I saw this post, I had ordered an OEM replacement hot end, so I need to install that to print the new mount. Will the new code be compatible with the original hot end at all?

[3D by EB]

The mount I designed actually fits inside the OEM cage, so the Bltouch sensor is going to mount the same.

The new hot end nozzle is in almost the exact same spot as the OEM, so the part cooling fan works just fine. I did end up routing the wires from the fan on the outside of the cage. Mainly because the new bracket blocks the original wire path, and secondly I am going to do a part fan upgrade in the future.

The code should be compatible with new OEM hot end as long as you change the setting "Bang_Max" The OEM hot end requires a setting of 255, and I had to lower it to 75 for the new hot end. I would also suggest doing an M303 PID autotune anytime you do update your firmware and then do a M301 command to save your new settings. I did the autotune thru my Octopi print server.

Download the latest Arduino software and open the marlin configuration file. I would suggest watching a youtube video on updating the A10M firmware and follow along with the guy when you are reviewing the firmware I uploaded. It will also get you familiar with the software. What I provided was my current best configuration after 6 or 7 hours of research and troubleshooting.

After you check thru everything, just connect your USB cable to your printer and hit the upload button. It will verify the config file before uploading.

The only thing I haven't tested yet is doing a 2 color print with the new hot end.

[crusader27529]

Thanks......I'm familiar with the Arduino IDE, and am an active programmer in that environment.

So my question was primarily related to making sure that I chose the correct file to 'compile' for download, and the appropriate options in the IDE for the A10M motherboard.

Your response was very helpful, and it give me confidence that once I get the printer operational with the OEM replacement hot end and print your mount for the new hot end, things will result in a functiuonal printer with the new hot end.

Sorry for me being wordy, but that's the engineer in me......