Hello, please I need your help, normally even if I calibrate the distance and the temperature, the material does not adhere to the surface and is dragged by the tip of the needle.
I no longer know what else I can do and I am becoming disillusioned with 3D printing in I3 Pro B.
Atached pictures.
Recurring begining failure
Recurring begining failure
- Attachments
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- VID_20191008_001554596.jpg (63.95 KiB) Viewed 14563 times
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Re: Recurring begining failure
Hi, from the pictures you provided,
You need to level the hot bed,
The distance between the nozzle and the hot bed is the distance of a piece of 70gA4 paper.
and the print speed is recommended at 30-60mm/s.
I hope this can help you.
You need to level the hot bed,
The distance between the nozzle and the hot bed is the distance of a piece of 70gA4 paper.
and the print speed is recommended at 30-60mm/s.
I hope this can help you.
-Keep your mind and try to test it. 
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
-Everything will be fun！-Support all Getech printer.
-You can ask me the questions and I will kindly reply.
-Respect others is the best way you can get help!
Re: Recurring begining failure
Hi Juan183,
You don't say what first layer height you've chosen.
What material ?
What nozzle temperature and bed temperature ?
Are you using anything on the glass to help first layer adhesion ? - Any glue or spray ?
Once you have made certain the bed is level...
I periodically manually check all four extreme corners are the same - About every 10 - 15 prints or so...
And I have a probe to check the level every print !
I print in PETG - I've never printed anything else on my i3 Pro B.
I have blue painter's masking tape on my printing bed - it helps the first layer stick correctly.
I always have a first layer of 0.3mm
I usually print all other layers at 0.2mm
I have the nozzle at 245 deg C for the first layer, then may drop this to 240 deg or sometimes 243 deg...
I have the bed temperature at 75deg C for the first layer, then may drop this to 70 deg for other layers...
Getting the first layer to print correctly is critical to getting a successful print - If this fails, I would abort the print and check as follows...
Check the 'Zero' height of the nozzle and re-set accordingly.
(Even though I have a BL Touch probe, this can change - especially if I've played with the filament extruder release at all.)
Check the bed is level...
Maybe time to change the blue masking tape ! - I usually get more than 10 prints off each application though.
Gerry
You don't say what first layer height you've chosen.
What material ?
What nozzle temperature and bed temperature ?
Are you using anything on the glass to help first layer adhesion ? - Any glue or spray ?
Once you have made certain the bed is level...
I periodically manually check all four extreme corners are the same - About every 10 - 15 prints or so...
And I have a probe to check the level every print !
I print in PETG - I've never printed anything else on my i3 Pro B.
I have blue painter's masking tape on my printing bed - it helps the first layer stick correctly.
I always have a first layer of 0.3mm
I usually print all other layers at 0.2mm
I have the nozzle at 245 deg C for the first layer, then may drop this to 240 deg or sometimes 243 deg...
I have the bed temperature at 75deg C for the first layer, then may drop this to 70 deg for other layers...
Getting the first layer to print correctly is critical to getting a successful print - If this fails, I would abort the print and check as follows...
Check the 'Zero' height of the nozzle and re-set accordingly.
(Even though I have a BL Touch probe, this can change - especially if I've played with the filament extruder release at all.)
Check the bed is level...
Maybe time to change the blue masking tape ! - I usually get more than 10 prints off each application though.
Gerry
Re: Recurring begining failure
Hi,
I've been using my i3 Pro B since way back in May 2017 using PLA. I've now arrived at the following criteria for good prints after a lot of trial and error.
I print with an extruder temperature of 200 degrees, bed at 65 degrees using a 0.3mm nozzle. I had to decrease the extruder temp to 180 degrees to print Geeetech's wood filament with a 0.5mm nozzle with a 4mm retraction to minimise stringing. (Retraction normally 2mm.)
I tried the blue tape and also Pritstik solid glue for bed adhesion originally but now just ensure the extruder/bed gap is constant across the bed area and level using a strip of A4 paper as a feeler gauge as per William above. I generally don't have to level the bed once set except if I change the nozzle, just check it if problems arise. I clean the glass with either Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) but mainly with a wet paper towel then a dry one.
I've been thinking about using PETG filament but wasn't sure the printer could handle the higher temperatures as the spec says extruder Max of 240 degrees and PETG isn't mentioned in the recommendations. Thanks to Gerry for the detailed info in its use! Cheers mate!
Soadyheid.
I've been using my i3 Pro B since way back in May 2017 using PLA. I've now arrived at the following criteria for good prints after a lot of trial and error.
I print with an extruder temperature of 200 degrees, bed at 65 degrees using a 0.3mm nozzle. I had to decrease the extruder temp to 180 degrees to print Geeetech's wood filament with a 0.5mm nozzle with a 4mm retraction to minimise stringing. (Retraction normally 2mm.)
I tried the blue tape and also Pritstik solid glue for bed adhesion originally but now just ensure the extruder/bed gap is constant across the bed area and level using a strip of A4 paper as a feeler gauge as per William above. I generally don't have to level the bed once set except if I change the nozzle, just check it if problems arise. I clean the glass with either Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) but mainly with a wet paper towel then a dry one.
I've been thinking about using PETG filament but wasn't sure the printer could handle the higher temperatures as the spec says extruder Max of 240 degrees and PETG isn't mentioned in the recommendations. Thanks to Gerry for the detailed info in its use! Cheers mate!
Soadyheid.
Re: Recurring begining failure
Hi Soadyhide,
You're welcome !
I would add that I print using a 0.4mm nozzle, the printer was first built using the supplied 0.3mm, but changing it (Very cheap via ebay) has proven to be beneficial.
The blue masking tape I use is 3M masking tape, 50mm wide so 4 strips placed across the bed is enough for me. Lasts ages and hence very cheap.
I use 4mm retraction as well...
As for print speeds ?
I find most claims are quite 'Optimistic' !
I reckon a slow print that works first time is better than several faster failures !
I print PETG at a max of about 40mm/s with the first layer at half this... (I used to print faster, but I rarely ever get a failure now)
I have some 'Custom Commands' in my ProB set up. I've programmed one of these to be a 'Prepare for PETG' - Hence I can set this going and pre-heat my bed and nozzle. I let them sit at temperature for a few minutes before printing to let things settle down. Also - the top surface of the blue tape will lag behind the bed when heating, so a few mins at temperature can only help with this.
I don't know if you've used any custom scripts (Very useful), there's a conversation between myself and Vert (Moderator) as to how I learned to do these here...
https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopi ... 904#p99904
I also use a cheapo blower fan on my ProB, I used a custom nozzle to fit this,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650612
Being cheap, it's not 'Genuinely' controllable, but I find anything between 50 - 100% works perfectly well and I wouldn't run any slower on the fan anyway.
Hope you enjoy playing with PETG - It's great to use once you get the printer set up correctly.
Gerry
You're welcome !
I would add that I print using a 0.4mm nozzle, the printer was first built using the supplied 0.3mm, but changing it (Very cheap via ebay) has proven to be beneficial.
The blue masking tape I use is 3M masking tape, 50mm wide so 4 strips placed across the bed is enough for me. Lasts ages and hence very cheap.
I use 4mm retraction as well...
As for print speeds ?
I find most claims are quite 'Optimistic' !
I reckon a slow print that works first time is better than several faster failures !
I print PETG at a max of about 40mm/s with the first layer at half this... (I used to print faster, but I rarely ever get a failure now)
I have some 'Custom Commands' in my ProB set up. I've programmed one of these to be a 'Prepare for PETG' - Hence I can set this going and pre-heat my bed and nozzle. I let them sit at temperature for a few minutes before printing to let things settle down. Also - the top surface of the blue tape will lag behind the bed when heating, so a few mins at temperature can only help with this.
I don't know if you've used any custom scripts (Very useful), there's a conversation between myself and Vert (Moderator) as to how I learned to do these here...
https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopi ... 904#p99904
I also use a cheapo blower fan on my ProB, I used a custom nozzle to fit this,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3650612
Being cheap, it's not 'Genuinely' controllable, but I find anything between 50 - 100% works perfectly well and I wouldn't run any slower on the fan anyway.
Hope you enjoy playing with PETG - It's great to use once you get the printer set up correctly.
Gerry
Re: Recurring begining failure
Well, that's me started using PETG filament with a bit of trepidation! I use Slic3r3R Prusa Edition-1.38d-Linux64 for slicing on my Linux Mint18.3 workstation and started by modifying my Filament config file to give a hot end temperature of 230 degrees. (I left the bed at my standard PLA 65 degrees) and set the filament type to PET (PETG not a selectable item, I need to see if there's a newer version of Slic3r probably.) My first test print, a minimug, came out better than my PLA ones with a bit of difficulty in removing the print from my glass hotbed (Pritstick glue used)
I've since printed out a couple of Covid-19 face shield frames which look pretty good but needed a file run over a couple of pimples.
So far pretty impressed as I only had to change the two parameters in Slic3r! I haven't added an additional fan to my printer, I have a printed cowl which diverts air from the y-Axis fan to the hot end. Works for me!
I've since printed out a couple of Covid-19 face shield frames which look pretty good but needed a file run over a couple of pimples.
So far pretty impressed as I only had to change the two parameters in Slic3r! I haven't added an additional fan to my printer, I have a printed cowl which diverts air from the y-Axis fan to the hot end. Works for me!
Re: Recurring begining failure
Ah well, back to the drawing board! The printer has developed a hot bed problem (No longer heats up! 
) The display shows the target temperature; 65 degrees but actual temperature of 0 degrees. The Repetier-host temperature graph shown no hot bed input. I've moved the bed front to back but the heating LED doesn't come on though it did at one point and the bed felt warm. Checked wire connections to the board, AOK, thermister plug reseated a couple of times, still nothing. Looks like I'm going to have to dig out the multimeter and start checking components. I think I may post this as a separate problem. Going to lie down in a darkened room for a while. <sigh>
Soadyheid
) The display shows the target temperature; 65 degrees but actual temperature of 0 degrees. The Repetier-host temperature graph shown no hot bed input. I've moved the bed front to back but the heating LED doesn't come on though it did at one point and the bed felt warm. Checked wire connections to the board, AOK, thermister plug reseated a couple of times, still nothing. Looks like I'm going to have to dig out the multimeter and start checking components. I think I may post this as a separate problem. Going to lie down in a darkened room for a while. <sigh>Soadyheid