Power supply cable problem - GT2560 a+ nearly burned !

[William]

I think the PSU's 4pin terminals may have a big problem, and their contact is poor. Therefore, we recommend that you solder the PSU cable directly to the motherboard's power input.

[keyser187]

I have no idea how to solder, I wouldn't feel safe knowing I couldn't disconnect the power if I did and plus, its too late now.

[William]

You can ask the sales to send you the replacement.
Then you can change it.

[mrtimpovey@gmail.com]

mine has just done exactly the same but luckily I was near it at the time and able to take it outside to clear the smoke from the plastic melting.

this is really dangerous.

[William]

mine has just done exactly the same but luckily I was near it at the time and able to take it outside to clear the smoke from the plastic melting.

this is really dangerous.

Hi, You can contact your sales to replace it.

[wavewash]

I've experienced the same issue with mine as well - purchased in 2015. This is definitely a fire hazard. In addition to the PSU connector having burned I noticed some scortch marks on the bed heater connector to the gt2560 as well. What's the advised path of action to remedy this? As of now my printer is out of commission. Thankfully there was no harm or damage done to person or home. I'll try contacting Geeetech via email too to get some guidance.

For background:
I was printing PLA at 206-212C
Bed Heater was at 60C
The printer started showing intermittent heating problems
Over the lifetime of the printer I've only gone through less than 2 kg of PLA.
Firmware was upgraded from marlin 1.1 to 2.0 - with thermal runaway protection (which was tripped often but I didn't realize what was happening)

[William]

Hi, Your power cord plug looks burnt out,
Whether the voltage range is adjusted to the voltage range you want,
The heating plug also looks burnt out.
When the voltage is normal, you can check whether the thermistor on the hot end is fully connected
And can be measured with a multimeter.

[Externet]

Got my Geeetech i3 Prusa Pro W in 2018 been happy since. Printed a lot with ABS (Bed over 100c). Now i have some restarting issues when i heat the bed over some time. When i looked on my board i also have molten parts on the power connector. I tired to disconnect the power plug but was unsuccessfull, its stuck on there impossible to get off.
Is there a solution? I have zero soldering skills.

Molten/burned connector impossible to get off.


PSU cables "burned"?


Solder sagging, got too hot?


EDIT:
With some force and blood i finally got it disconnected. Looks horrible, no wonder why my printer recently started to reboot itself when heating the bed for some time.


Did someone try soldering the wires to the board? Is it safe even? Or would the solder melt?

[Externet]

For everyone that owns on of these printers get (or GT2560 and 12V combination):

• External Mosfet (for the heatbed)

• (Optional) 14 AWG wires (if the mosfet did not come with some)

• (Optional) ~15amp Fuse

• 12V 20amp (240 Watt) Power Supply

The Mosfet will draw the power directly from the Power Supply rather than going through the mainboard and heating up the 4 pin connector, thus, melting it. Most external mosfets come with a bigger heatsink that don't even have to be actively cooled. You could basically have a fan-less 3d printer. Also important avoid tiny wires that come with external mosfets! Use at least 16 AWG or 14 AWG wires otherwise you will have them burning instead...

The Power Supply, that comes with the Pro W (and others?) only come with a 12v 15amp version (at least i got one). This is not sufficient as you can hear the cooling fans slow down when heating. The Power Supply is reducing its voltage to keep delivering proper amps. Upgrading to a 12v 20amp is recommended.

The Fuse, that is available on the GT2560 board is bypassed when installing a external mosfet. Thus, its recommended installing a Fuse between the Power Supply and external mosfet live wire. To avoid overloading the Power Supply when a heater element fails. A heatbed is very durable, installing a fuse there might not be necessary. When using a external mosfet for a nozzle heating cartridge however, you should install a 10amp fuse. As they have a shorter lifespan and break very easily. Not sure why you would install a external mosfet for the nozzle heating cartridge, thats very overkill...
Also: ENABLE THERMAL RUNAWAY PROTECTION IN YOUR FIRMWARE!!!

Geeetech should consider widen the connector for the GT2560 to a 6pin or 8pin connector or make the GT2560 24V only.
Or even better: Remove the mosfets from the board and include them separately to the board aka external mosfets which will make the board even more compact and modular!

Anyways my printer is running again now, thanks to you, external mosfets!

[blancot]

It's good that you noticed the fault in time, behind it something was damaged.


snaptube vidmate word to pdf