Geeetech

So I got some TMC2208 Drivers and 3D Touch for my A10. Figured it would be a good time to try out 2.0 b uild from here. Got it configured and uploaded. I got it all to work and then tried to fine tune. 9 hours later. Can't get anything to stick to my bed. verified temps and they are where they should be.
Tried removing the touch probe and making plain 1.1.9 firmware for the tmc2208 drivers and still no joy.
I went through all bed leveling each new firmware upload and sometimes more then once.
I simply cannot figure it out.
To me it seems like some offset is stuck in the firmware from previous. I am sure it's likely not possible but I am not sure what else to do.
How can I clear it all out and start over?
GT2560 V3 Board

vert wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:36 pm

post flash you have to clear the eeprom where settings are stored this area of the chip can survive being reflashed.

I will try that. Thank you.

vert wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:36 pm

post flash you have to clear the eeprom where settings are stored this area of the chip can survive being reflashed.

I reloaded 407 and then cleared eeprom. it locked up. I ended up clearing eeprom and then flash 407 (now 408 is out lol grrr) got my spacers under bed and remounted and adjusted the 3d touch.

ITS PRINTING!!!
Not sure how well but it is printing. Small print right now. Will see what it looks like.
Mind if I show you in this thread when done? Maybe you'll have a tip on dialing in the Z offset.

Either way thanks for the help!!!!

vert wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 6:41 am

motcher41 wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 6:14 am

vert wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:36 pm

post flash you have to clear the eeprom where settings are stored this area of the chip can survive being reflashed.

I reloaded 407 and then cleared eeprom. it locked up. I ended up clearing eeprom and then flash 407 (now 408 is out lol grrr) got my spacers under bed and remounted and adjusted the 3d touch.

ITS PRINTING!!!
Not sure how well but it is printing. Small print right now. Will see what it looks like.
Mind if I show you in this thread when done? Maybe you'll have a tip on dialing in the Z offset.

Either way thanks for the help!!!!

if you disable stop endstops after homing you can then lower z and use paper to find your offset once the nozzle is contacting the paper you return to the info screen and the current Z position is you z offset enter the value then to live adjust during print double tap the knob for babystepping the z offset adjustments.
im live streaming a 12h print on my youtube right now.

That's what I did to get me where I am at. First layer isn't that great yet. It is rough and not too smooth. I think I need to get a little bit lower. I am at -1.2mm if I make that -1.25 for example that will get me close to the bed right?

One last question which is off topic.
When it goes through bilinear leveling with the probe it stops and waits each point for bed heating. Bed isn't dropping in temperature. Is there a way to disable this in firmware? Makes bed leveling sooooo long lol

Hi, you can check if the wiring on your motherboard is correct.
If the wiring is correct,
You can try to exchange the motor wire to turn the motor to determine if the motor wire is broken.
Then you can try to adjust the drive board voltage.

vert wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:44 pm

motcher41 wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:16 pm

One last question which is off topic.
When it goes through bilinear leveling with the probe it stops and waits each point for bed heating. Bed isn't dropping in temperature. Is there a way to disable this in firmware? Makes bed leveling sooooo long lol

unless you changed it we don't use the old inferior ABL system we use UBL set it once and forget bed leveling.
heaters being active effect probe accuracy it is set to prevent accuracy loss.
if you insist on disregarding the issue you can disable.

Code: Select all

#define WAIT_FOR_BED_HEATER 

Guilty. I changed it even after reading the stuff on Marlins website UBL kind of confused me

vert wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 2:54 pm

its simple ill put up a guide again.
from the UBL menu
you build a mesh
use smart fillin
activate UBL
set fade height
then store settings to save everything
now UBL is active on boot and no slicer settings are required for bed leveling.

That is simple lol. for whatever reason Marlin makes it sound a lot harder than it is. Now here's a question what is the fade height. Having 3D printed in 5 years so things have changed since the MakerBot came out

Awesome explanation. Thank you so much it's nice to have people like you in the forum. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Definitely makes it easier to enjoy the machine LOL

vert wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 3:19 pm

motcher41 wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 3:13 pm

Awesome explanation. Thank you so much it's nice to have people like you in the forum. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Definitely makes it easier to enjoy the machine LOL

geeetech noticed this a while back and just made me green lol.

I used to be on several android forums in the way you are here. i know how it can be AT TIMES.