Geeetech

Hey Guys,

its me again :/

I had a good run with my prints until my filament ran out and now i replaced ith with some golden Amolen Filament

https://www.amazon.de/AMOLEN-Drucker-Fi ... 139&sr=8-5

After a lot of tinkering i was able to get it adhere to the buildplate for the brim, but then something weird happend, almost directly when it started to extrude the material for the actual print it started to fail and (maybe) clogg up

Does anybody know what i might be able to do against that?
Right now i run the dual printhead only with one filament, should i change that? So it doest have some other plastic fed into the other side?
Or does anybody has any other ideas how i could approach the problem ?

https://imgur.com/a/6IhNvr8

Yours Sincerely

Sack

Hi, You can also put the consumables on the other end, otherwise, it will be easy to block, you can clean the nozzles regularly.

it is not possible to run A10M with one filament only. Put at least 70cm into second bowden

I now switched filaments because i thought it might be a problem with the filament itself.
I now use Black and Yellow Geetech filament but still get problems with my prints, there seems to be some underextrusion and in some points its just seems to clog

I cleared the hotend as well as i could and it then works for some time, but not enough to finish a print, i exchanged the nozzle (any proper way to really clean them?)

I am thinking about completly exchanging the hotend, does anybody know which hotend i should buy? And where i can do that ?

As you can see on the picture there are a couple of issues:

1. One side of the brim does adhere fine (right side)
2. other side doesnt adhere fine ( left side)
3. Once the head starts with the "real" print, the filament doesnt stick and is chlunky

Regarding 1 and 2:
I do use a autolevel probe, i thing that the underextrusion leads to a point where the amount of PLA is barely enough to adhere properly(rightside) but not enough for the left side.

Regarding 3:
Is it possible that this could be connected to "print cooling" settings in cura?

Hi, maybe you have to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed, it seems that the distance between the nozzle and the hotbed is relatively close.

But on the left side the discrepancy seems to be too great, so the PLA seems to stay in a "round" form and is not properly adhering at all :/

Hi, maybe you need to clean up the residual model on the hot bed first and then refer to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RtsZDbR2po&t=66s

Apparently also have weird printing results after "missing" Z-ES wire resolved.


Remixed projects with slic3r software for 1/3 speed recommended 10mm/s iso 30mm/s.

So far, leveling done many times but prints cannot rise above 1 mm from hotbed despite Z "shown" 3.2mm. Even after "octopus" ended after 2 hr 34 mins, just have white nylon imprint on hotbed despite screen showing Z at 38.4 mm. EEPROM reset, able to "auto-home" then raised Z to 150 mm few times after print started. https://bit.ly/32gaHnh -- Follow PA Nylon filament manufacturer's tips below"

Printing temperature : 230°C - 260°C depending on part and printer type
Print speeds : 18 mm/s first layer, then 28mm/s - 34mm/s
Heated bed of 110°C helps combat Nylon's warp
No cooling fans
Only use in well ventilated areas
Store dry when not in use, absorbs moisture

230 degree seems way too much for PLA. That may explain partially your issue. But starting with a first good layer is indeed the main challenge.
Personaly I use now some blue tape and it improved my print success ratio, tough far from 100%.
I also use rafts most of the time instead of brim. I would suggest you to try first with a pretty slow raft at 20 mm/s for the first layer.
Also be sure that there is some filament on both entries of the nozzle, even if you use only one color.
Before any print, I heat up the nozzle, I push manually the 2nd filament (even if not using it), then I do the same with first filament and I start the print. I assume that there may be some chemical reactions when 2 filament blend that makes sticking on the bed more difficult that with a single extruder printer.

Not using PLA filament all the while. Have been talking about Nylon PA66 filament for days.

The issues are printing even at 10 mm/s and either black or white Nylon filament (each oozing from extruder at 260 deg C)
ONLY can get 2D print even after 2 hours 25 minutes printing of mini Octopus. On green LCD screen was showing 38.4 mm
but only 2D output, i.e. extruder cannot rise above 1 mm on Z-axis.

Manually can shift Z-axis cum extruder on "Prepare" sub-menu to above 200 mm.
"Auto-Home" many times no problem for many levelling with A4 paper friction test at 4 corners done.