Geeetech

Hi all, new to the forums here.

I've had my A10 printer since around October and have had 3 different boards in this thing since.

I picked this printer up from an eBay listing, but I'm pretty frustrated with things as they are. As of now, the printer is non-functional.

The board that originally came with the machine had a blown somewhere. The next two were issues with the temperature probes where, even while disconnected, the thermistors would read a value WAY too high for even the air temp in the room.

I've been looking around and have come to the conclusion that the boards might have just been faulty and I've had a pretty bad run of luck, but as it stands, I have only had roughly 4 months with this machine with it being down more often than not, with replacement boards taking a month each to ship with about a week of correspondence and trouble shooting each time. I'm tired of going back to the seller and requesting a new board every time i get more than 20 hours of print time on this thing.

Is there a control board I can use to replace the existing setup and if so, is there a pinout of the cabling so I don't have to re-wire much more than a new break away connector to the new one?

If not, I'll be putting this thing up for sale and let some other poor sap try their luck. Who knows, they might have better than I did.

thanks in advance.

I think you can upgrade it to the new version A10.
It works with the GT2560V3 board.
Here is the upgrade list:
1.The new cables for endstop, extruder,hotbed and motor
(For the hotbed,you need to replace the old cable then solder the pin for 24V work mode then it will work.)
2.The extruder adapter board
3.The holder for hotend kit

i have same problem with mine a10 printer, several replacement boards do not work (temperature failure)
i spent more money for replacement parts the last month as i paid for whole printer when it comes new

@william

is it possible to work with adapters or is there any kind of upgrade kit

REV B board version --> REV 3 board,
is i remind endstop switches and motor connection are another type of connectors
but the usb socket ist alss placed different, so if you have older a10, you have to cut the metal enclosure

what kind of lcd connection has Rev 3, these stupid flat ribbon cable or is it a bigger type with real cables
in this case you also need a new controller unit

hate to say it but i've got the V3 board and my temperature probes are away also.crazy temperatures with everything disconnected. I've just bought a replacement board. If it goes again i will be getting rid of this machine.

I paid £160 for it thinking i was doing the right thing getting a budget machine to practice on. i've now spent an extra £140 replacing parts. i'm thinking i should have waited longer and bought a more credible machine.

in this case, if we have same problems with several boards it must be a trivial problem

i checked my sensors and all sensors are good
after flashing latest firmware i have also set the sensor in the code (configuration.h file)

search for sensor type 3950 and in the code you will find the subscription and it calls number 11 for this type of sensor

normally it is set on sensor number 1 type sensor but this is wrong, i can work because both sensor type work same way

but i suppose just take a new board with pre charged firmware from geeetech will not work

i am not a script kiddy or engineer but i hope its some kind of coding what is missing (or some settings in the additional librarie files for the main code)

i think the boards version may also differ in same version???

this is a new type of problem -GEEETECH customer support pls help

Hi,@bernte_one
1. For the upgrade kit, you need to contact the sales at first.
Then they will give you the upgrade plan.
2. As you remind us the LCD shows the abnormal temp info
I think you should check the cable lines of the hotbed 3.The LCD cable : FPC 40 PIN cable

i deliberately shorted the thermistor on the heatbed. Receiving a MIN Temp error which then read 27/0 on the bed and allowed me to pre heat the bed up without the temperature increasing so i had a heated bed which read 27/50 where before it was 84/0 and would not heat up at all. so what i am left with now is a hot end saying 350/0 at room temperature and a heated bed which i have no idea is stopping at 50C reading 27/50?

hope this can add a new dynamic to this. I have not replaced the thermistor as my attempt at soldering failed miserably and i've ordered a new alulminium heat bed.

@ William

can you give me a link or contact for the sales support?

my thermistor cables from bed are placed in the middle of the soldered connectors

i have problem at two places
there is a wrong temp reading at both thermistors shown on lcd
both around 125 degree Celsius

i checked thermistor both are ok and show 100k when cold (type 3950)

but a real problem that i have found is on the board connectors
on my previous board i could measure form the sensors pin on board to the nearest 4,7K resistor the correct value (R4, and R59?)

on the replacement board the values are much lower(on one reading 66R and the other pin header 250R round about)

the there must be some defect on a part which allows to pass the measure line from pin connector to resistor and give me that lower values

i can still heat up the nozzle but i give end temperatur which is 125+ higher then adjusted (thats clear because the offset or zero reading is 125 if i heat up for 180 it give 125+180 -- 315)

my bead dont heat anymore, also clear beacause zero reading passes the bed max temperature form start reading so it goes in protection

Seeing as how my question hasn't been answered, but has been hijacked instead, can a Mod just lock this thread, please? I'll simply get a multimeter and pinout the connections myself, thanks.