Printer Nozzles.

[ebam2014]

Simple question

What Printer nozzles does this printer use? And whats the best way to remove them from the printer?

Thank you

regards
Ebam

[buttervonwaffle]

here is the nozzle style it uses here you can find it elsewhere as well. you can use 0.4mm or you can test out other sizes. the Olson ruby is a fantastic nozzle and as you upgrade hot ends you can do carbon fiber. I personally use nozzles from prusa directly, and have had great success and printing prusa level prints.

Now as for removal. I found a ratchet and socket it uses a 7mm socket and a crescent wrench to stabilize the hot end not necessary but helps to eliminate twisting you can use pliers but pliers bite into the hot ends metal.
1. heat your nozzle with the preheat abs setting to about 240 degrees (do not remove the nozzle without heating it you will damage your hot end).
2. Once its fully heated remove your filament from the hot end.
3. Remove the nozzle with your 7mm socket and ratchet slowly as to avoid complications.
4. With the hot end still out just tighten on the knew nozzle, to a snug fit, do not over exert you can break a lot without realizing it. better to have a loose nozzle and tighten it gradually than over tightening and breaking a part. if your worried about torque theirs a nice 3d print torque wrench here. I personally have not printed it but several of my friends have and they love it. But i think its honestly over kill for a simple job.

now before you print make sure to run some filament through the heated nozzle to ensure everything is working properly as well as ensure your PTFE tube is fully inserted.

[ebam2014]

here is the nozzle style it uses here you can find it elsewhere as well. you can use 0.4mm or you can test out other sizes. the Olson ruby is a fantastic nozzle and as you upgrade hot ends you can do carbon fiber. I personally use nozzles from prusa directly, and have had great success and printing prusa level prints.

Now as for removal. I found a ratchet and socket it uses a 7mm socket and a crescent wrench to stabilize the hot end not necessary but helps to eliminate twisting you can use pliers but pliers bite into the hot ends metal.
1. heat your nozzle with the preheat abs setting to about 240 degrees (do not remove the nozzle without heating it you will damage your hot end).
2. Once its fully heated remove your filament from the hot end.
3. Remove the nozzle with your 7mm socket and ratchet slowly as to avoid complications.
4. With the hot end still out just tighten on the knew nozzle, to a snug fit, do not over exert you can break a lot without realizing it. better to have a loose nozzle and tighten it gradually than over tightening and breaking a part. if your worried about torque theirs a nice 3d print torque wrench here. I personally have not printed it but several of my friends have and they love it. But i think its honestly over kill for a simple job.

now before you print make sure to run some filament through the heated nozzle to ensure everything is working properly as well as ensure your PTFE tube is fully inserted.

Thank you so much for all that info... a MASSIVE help... Nozzles look like the same as I used to use on my old CTC printer Hot end upgrade??? would you mine explaining further?

Thank you

[buttervonwaffle]

Oh yeah I hear you, honestly if your new to 3D printing it can be over whelming at first all the different settings hardware adjustments.

Now what I mean by hot end upgrade, micro Swiss makes a hotend which can be found here

And heres a video explaining it and the installation basically the stock setup can't go hotter than I believe 260 nor print carbon fiber because it can't achieve the proper temperatures and the stock equipment will wear out very fast. Plus the stock hot end has the ptfe tube running all the way down. With the micro Swiss it's all metal so less chance for heat creep and clogging and reduced wear. What that Ruby Olson nozzle does gives you a quality Swiss machined nozzle that won't get bored out by the carbon fiber. All thanks to that Ruby bit they put on the end. It's pricey but well worth it. I believe with those two your out 120 bucks for the new hot end and Ruby nozzle. But it really expands the capabilitys of the print for cheaper than a prusa plus I found that the marlin 2.0 firmware all though it is beta fixed alot of y axis shifting and fractures to create smooth prints.

I will say the machine isnt perfect but if you put in the work and a bit of cash, it can achieve some great prints rivaling those of thousand dollar machines.

[ebam2014]

Your a STAR for providing all this information...

Not completely new to 3D printing as like I have already said had a CTC Dual 3d Printer but that was CR*P even after spending £150+ on it to fix and upgrade it. The A10 out of the box was 100 times better and have already printer more than I did with the CTC in the 3 months I have had the A10 (had the CTC 2 and half years) I have found I can print things with my A10 that I never could with the CTC. So am already a happy bunny... So with the suggestions you have made that's just going to get better...


Again thank you so much....

[buttervonwaffle]

Not a problem. Sorry I forgot you had mentioned that when I typed that all out lol. Glad it's working great for you, been running mine for a month now and I'm loving it, seriously didn't think I could get a 200 dollar printer to print the quality it does. Plus the opensource platform and support from the ender 3 community makes this platform pretty robust for the cost.

[ebam2014]

Not a problem. Sorry I forgot you had mentioned that when I typed that all out lol. Glad it's working great for you, been running mine for a month now and I'm loving it, seriously didn't think I could get a 200 dollar printer to print the quality it does. Plus the opensource platform and support from the ender 3 community makes this platform pretty robust for the cost.

support from ender 3 community????

[buttervonwaffle]

Yeah the geeetech a10 is a clone of the ender 3. Which is fantastic because if you have a problem that you can't find the answer to. The ender 3 forums have a good chance that they solved it. Now you might have to adapt stuff because the printers aren't 100 percent the same, but they are super close.

[buttervonwaffle]

Hopefully that answers your question lol.