Flashing GT2560 v3 Bootloader

[_kaktus_]

Looks like reset can also be accessed through the step stick pins.

There is nothing more wrong.

[Hogdriver]

I have been working with Geeetech on several issues with my A10M, and they sent me several items to swap out... one of which was the motherboard.

Prior to swapping it out, I had successfully flashed Verts Marlin 2.0 build 210 and made a test print with an unheated bed (bed heater is what was mainly messed up on original board). Using that firmware, I got a great test print! (fixed my under-extrusion problem) So I went ahead and did the motherboard swap-out to see if I could get the bed heater working...

Pulled the motherboard out of a sealed staticguard envelope, installed it... powered up the printer... and the display is blank.

My initial thought is no firmware flashed, so I set up to flash Marlin 2.0 build 210 that I had just tested on the bad Motherboard. Unfortunately, I kept getting communication timeout errors, so I suspect that not only was there no firmware on the board, but also there is no boot-loader as well.

Which obviously led me to this thread. My woes continue. After following the steps religiously to setup an arduino as ISP (tried it with 2 different arduinos -- genuino and geekreit), verifying connectivity from the SD contact points and the reset pad to pins 10-13 on the arduino, I keep getting an invalid signature error (I'll paste in the verbose below).

I'd appreciate any and all suggestions, as I'm going on a month with a paperweight printer!

-------------------------------

Code: Select all

avrdude: Version 6.3-20171130
         Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
         Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch

         System wide configuration file is "D:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/etc/avrdude.conf"

         Using Port                    : COM5
         Using Programmer              : arduino
         Overriding Baud Rate          : 19200
         AVR Part                      : ATmega2560
         Chip Erase delay              : 9000 us
         PAGEL                         : PD7
         BS2                           : PA0
         RESET disposition             : dedicated
         RETRY pulse                   : SCK
         serial program mode           : yes
         parallel program mode         : yes
         Timeout                       : 200
         StabDelay                     : 100
         CmdexeDelay                   : 25
         SyncLoops                     : 32
         ByteDelay                     : 0
         PollIndex                     : 3
         PollValue                     : 0x53
         Memory Detail                 :

                                  Block Poll               Page                       Polled
           Memory Type Mode Delay Size  Indx Paged  Size   Size #Pages MinW  MaxW   ReadBack
           ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- ---------
           eeprom        65    10     8    0 no       4096    8      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00
           flash         65    10   256    0 yes    262144  256   1024  4500  4500 0x00 0x00
           lfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00
           hfuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00
           efuse          0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00
           lock           0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0  9000  9000 0x00 0x00
           calibration    0     0     0    0 no          1    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00
           signature      0     0     0    0 no          3    0      0     0     0 0x00 0x00

         Programmer Type : Arduino
         Description     : Arduino
         Hardware Version: 2
         Firmware Version: 1.18
         Topcard         : Unknown
         Vtarget         : 0.0 V
         Varef           : 0.0 V
         Oscillator      : Off
         SCK period      : 0.1 us

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Error while burning bootloader.
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
avrdude: Yikes!  Invalid device signature.
         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
         this check.


avrdude done.  Thank you.

[Hogdriver]

what are you trying to use as ISP others have had to use the arduino UNO to get the bootloader to burn i got a tinyusbisp to work a few times but its not reliable i need to get a uno.

I tried both an Arduino Uno and a Geekcreit equivalent with 'arduino as ISP' as per the instructions in the linked video/description above...

HOWEVER, I now know that the replacement board DID have bootloader/firmware on it -- but it has some sort of intermittent bad connection with a critical component, as very occasionally I got it to boot up to Geeetechs 1.1.8 firmware. Whatever problem causing the intermittancy is probably also the reason I was unsuccessful in flashing the firmware and bootloader.

So I'm 2 for 2 now with defective Geeetech 2560 v3 motherboards. If I could put the two I have together, I might have one good board! With the ability to flash AND actually heat the bed! Is anyone else wondering if Geeetech is having some quality control issues with their supplier of boards?

I put the original (defective -- won't turn on heated bed) board back in, and am having very good success with some PLA test prints using your Marlin 2.0 build 210 (THANKS! a lot for your work on that project -- wish Geeetech put as much effort into it as you are!). Compared to my previous 2 printers, I'm really liking the print quality... Just wish I had a fully operational machine!

For now, I'm thinking of using my heat gun and trying to reflow some of the solder joints around the mega chip and LCD cable connection on the replacement board, since for all intents and purposes it is a pile of slag in its' present state.

UPDATE: In the process of heatgunning the traces around the mega chip, I noticed that one of the board CPU crystal (Just below the GT2560 silk screen logo) leads on the back had no solder joint at all... That would certainly explain the intermittent nature of the board booting. I'm just waiting to finish a print with the old board to re-swap yet again to see if this solved the problem. Although this level of troubleshooting would be considered beyond the capabilities of most end users, for those adventurous of you out there who are getting frustrated with Geeetech support response times (especially for the next 2 weeks during Chinese New Year), you might try going over your boards with a fine tooth comb to see if your problem might be shoddy fabrication and quality control!

UPDATE 2: The unsoldered crystal lead WAS in fact the culprit! MBoard booted fine once mounted, and took Vert's Marlin 2.0 build 210 flash like a champ. Doing my first test print now... WITH A HEATED BED finally after a month of back and forth with Geeetech!

And of course Geeetech support is 'off' until after the chinese new year holiday... 2 weeks from now!

[William]

what are you trying to use as ISP others have had to use the arduino UNO to get the bootloader to burn i got a tinyusbisp to work a few times but its not reliable i need to get a uno.

I tried both an Arduino Uno and a Geekcreit equivalent with 'arduino as ISP' as per the instructions in the linked video/description above...

HOWEVER, I now know that the replacement board DID have bootloader/firmware on it -- but it has some sort of intermittent bad connection with a critical component, as very occasionally I got it to boot up to Geeetechs 1.1.8 firmware. Whatever problem causing the intermittancy is probably also the reason I was unsuccessful in flashing the firmware and bootloader.

So I'm 2 for 2 now with defective Geeetech 2560 v3 motherboards. If I could put the two I have together, I might have one good board! With the ability to flash AND actually heat the bed! Is anyone else wondering if Geeetech is having some quality control issues with their supplier of boards?

I put the original (defective -- won't turn on heated bed) board back in, and am having very good success with some PLA test prints using your Marlin 2.0 build 210 (THANKS! a lot for your work on that project -- wish Geeetech put as much effort into it as you are!). Compared to my previous 2 printers, I'm really liking the print quality... Just wish I had a fully operational machine!

For now, I'm thinking of using my heat gun and trying to reflow some of the solder joints around the mega chip and LCD cable connection on the replacement board, since for all intents and purposes it is a pile of slag in its' present state.

UPDATE: In the process of heatgunning the traces around the mega chip, I noticed that one of the board CPU crystal (Just below the GT2560 silk screen logo) leads on the back had no solder joint at all... That would certainly explain the intermittent nature of the board booting. I'm just waiting to finish a print with the old board to re-swap yet again to see if this solved the problem. Although this level of troubleshooting would be considered beyond the capabilities of most end users, for those adventurous of you out there who are getting frustrated with Geeetech support response times (especially for the next 2 weeks during Chinese New Year), you might try going over your boards with a fine tooth comb to see if your problem might be shoddy fabrication and quality control!

UPDATE 2: The unsoldered crystal lead WAS in fact the culprit! MBoard booted fine once mounted, and took Vert's Marlin 2.0 build 210 flash like a champ. Doing my first test print now... WITH A HEATED BED finally after a month of back and forth with Geeetech!

And of course Geeetech support is 'off' until after the chinese new year holiday... 2 weeks from now!

How is it going on?Will the Geeetech sales send you the new board?

[Hogdriver]

what are you trying to use as ISP others have had to use the arduino UNO to get the bootloader to burn i got a tinyusbisp to work a few times but its not reliable i need to get a uno.

I tried both an Arduino Uno and a Geekcreit equivalent with 'arduino as ISP' as per the instructions in the linked video/description above...

HOWEVER, I now know that the replacement board DID have bootloader/firmware on it -- but it has some sort of intermittent bad connection with a critical component, as very occasionally I got it to boot up to Geeetechs 1.1.8 firmware. Whatever problem causing the intermittancy is probably also the reason I was unsuccessful in flashing the firmware and bootloader.

So I'm 2 for 2 now with defective Geeetech 2560 v3 motherboards. If I could put the two I have together, I might have one good board! With the ability to flash AND actually heat the bed! Is anyone else wondering if Geeetech is having some quality control issues with their supplier of boards?

I put the original (defective -- won't turn on heated bed) board back in, and am having very good success with some PLA test prints using your Marlin 2.0 build 210 (THANKS! a lot for your work on that project -- wish Geeetech put as much effort into it as you are!). Compared to my previous 2 printers, I'm really liking the print quality... Just wish I had a fully operational machine!

For now, I'm thinking of using my heat gun and trying to reflow some of the solder joints around the mega chip and LCD cable connection on the replacement board, since for all intents and purposes it is a pile of slag in its' present state.

UPDATE: In the process of heatgunning the traces around the mega chip, I noticed that one of the board CPU crystal (Just below the GT2560 silk screen logo) leads on the back had no solder joint at all... That would certainly explain the intermittent nature of the board booting. I'm just waiting to finish a print with the old board to re-swap yet again to see if this solved the problem. Although this level of troubleshooting would be considered beyond the capabilities of most end users, for those adventurous of you out there who are getting frustrated with Geeetech support response times (especially for the next 2 weeks during Chinese New Year), you might try going over your boards with a fine tooth comb to see if your problem might be shoddy fabrication and quality control!

UPDATE 2: The unsoldered crystal lead WAS in fact the culprit! MBoard booted fine once mounted, and took Vert's Marlin 2.0 build 210 flash like a champ. Doing my first test print now... WITH A HEATED BED finally after a month of back and forth with Geeetech!

And of course Geeetech support is 'off' until after the chinese new year holiday... 2 weeks from now!

How is it going on?Will the Geeetech sales send you the new board?

Waiting for them to come back from holiday... their 'out of office" email said not back until the 10th!

[i11]

Hey folks! Just wanted to say a big thank you to William for saving me quite a bit of time trying to find SPI pins. With provided instructions I have successfully flashed bootloader and unbricked my GT2560 board. Thanks!

[TMHedge]

Hello!, I've recently managed to get my printer in to a state where i'll need to flash the bootloader again! (at least i think!)
:S

Has anyone tested Vert's method? The theory looks sound but i haven't seen any replies here confirming it!

[beck6]

You can find the board here.https://www.allicdata.com/list.html?category_id=2091

[Mizuho]

Hi, I was trying to update my A10M to 1.1.9 Marlin and I have accidentally tried to flash the bootloader as well. I now cannot flash anything, as it seems it has corrupted the bootloader already installed.

It seems that I must use another arduino to connect to the GT2560 V3 board in my printer, but I don't quite understand the ISP connections.

Assuming the 5v, GND, MOSI, MISO and SCK are correct, I must remove a device and run power to the header where it was, then solder wires to the rear of my LCD/SD card board, but where does the reset go, as the reset shown is the board reset as mentioned. I am not sure where the reset part of the ATMEGA2560 chip can be connected to my secondary arduino's port 10. It seems to be pin 30 on the chip itself, but where does that end up? Or do I solder to that pin?

I would appreciate any help.

Edit:

Well, I figured I would just give it a go. I connected up to the pins shown on the SD card and tried, but it didn't work.

But after looking at this image, http://www.geeetech.com/forum/download/file.php?id=4705 it seems that the wires weren't connected to the MOSI or SCK. So I looked around the board and found they were connected to R16 and R19 just next to the SD connections, so I went for those instead. Now they are connected to the pins on the ATMEGA2650 chip, but I still cannot seem to burn the bootloader.

Nothing seems to be shorting, and ArduinoISP uploaded to my spare arduino fine, but when I tried to burn the bootloader, I still get invalid device signature. I am concerned that I now have a very expensive paperweight.

This is what happens, the device signature being all 0's leads me to believe that I am not connected correctly, even though the continuity test between the chip and the wire to the spare arduino seems fine.

Code: Select all

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000 (retrying)

Error while burning bootloader.
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
avrdude: Yikes!  Invalid device signature.
         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
         this check.

[Selmaks]

Have a look over here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3596842 hopefully it helps you.