I have observed 2 different problems:
- I've just started printing, however the bed seems to be losing its skin and looks like very old. Is it a problem with the bed, with my settings or that my nozzle is too low and scratches the skin? Should I worry about it or it is just aesthetic?I couldn't get the isopropilic alcohol to clean it and I'm using regular 96º alcohol
- It is impossible to have a perfect level with the 3Dtouch, when I print a wide piece, there are areas when under-extrudes and others where sligthly over-extrudes. My process was: leveled the bed using my bubble level, Z offset at 4.8 mm (it seems very high) at the autohome position, auto-leveled with the 3Dtouch and stored settings in the eeprom. BTW, I had to change several times my Z offset, it changes over time, which I think it shouldn't
Problems with bed in A10
Re: Problems with bed in A10
The bubble level was to reduce some "offset inclination" I will review that screw on the top bc the mount to the hot end structure seema pretty firm to me. I'll get one of your newer fw, should I go directly to 2.0?vert wrote: ↑Sun Mar 17, 2019 1:05 amthe settings in all the other firmware's around here are invalid for like everything.Alxo wrote: ↑Sun Mar 17, 2019 12:46 amI have observed 2 different problems:
- I've just started printing, however the bed seems to be losing its skin and looks like very old. Is it a problem with the bed, with my settings or that my nozzle is too low and scratches the skin? Should I worry about it or it is just aesthetic?I couldn't get the isopropilic alcohol to clean it and I'm using regular 96º alcohol
- It is impossible to have a perfect level with the 3Dtouch, when I print a wide piece, there are areas when under-extrudes and others where sligthly over-extrudes. My process was: leveled the bed using my bubble level, Z offset at 4.8 mm (it seems very high) at the autohome position, auto-leveled with the 3Dtouch and stored settings in the eeprom. BTW, I had to change several times my Z offset, it changes over time, which I think it shouldn't
i have corrected 100s of invalid values in stock and tested for 100s of hours.
i get 1 micron m48 deviation with my 3dtouch.
if you clean the bed hot you will remove the coating.
use of a bubble level will never work your tramming the bed not leveling it common miss understanding.
a z offset more then 3mm will result in issues adjust the mount.
the screw in the top of the 3dtouch can be loose causing it to back it self out every retract i had to glue it.
did you not peel the plastic layer off the bed what skin?
i think i covered everything listed.
I dont remember removing a plastic cover off the bed, although it does not look like it still has it. I had cleaned it hot a couple of times at the very beginning but not in the last days, where the process has speed up quite a lot.
Re: Problems with bed in A10
I attach a picture of the bed. I insist that I'm not cleaning it hot, I did a couple of times at the very beginning
Re: Problems with bed in A10
I have some scratches too because it is not flat glass, but not this flakes.
I was clean my bed at first few times only. Bu now print month without cleaning, only soft cotton cloth used (old t-shirt). But I print ABS only. It is capable to print big pieces without layer breaks, but slight bottom warping or ordinary warping of support are still here - I use 110°C for bed and 250°C for extruder, see my profile here http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=62527. Now I try fast profile for 120mm/s printing, but still not for public ,..
I was clean my bed at first few times only. Bu now print month without cleaning, only soft cotton cloth used (old t-shirt). But I print ABS only. It is capable to print big pieces without layer breaks, but slight bottom warping or ordinary warping of support are still here - I use 110°C for bed and 250°C for extruder, see my profile here http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=62527. Now I try fast profile for 120mm/s printing, but still not for public ,..
A10M Slic3r profile: here and fresh on github (lot of tips here)
A10 Slic3r profile: here
TIP: tight all screws and wheels (except right side of Z axis) and re-align frame while assembly. And silence it.
A10 Slic3r profile: here
TIP: tight all screws and wheels (except right side of Z axis) and re-align frame while assembly. And silence it.
Re: Problems with bed in A10
I only use PLA and I've never printed above 60 and usually I use 50, I don't think it is a temperature problem. I have always cleaned it with 96º ethilic alcohol and a cotton cloth, nothing else, yesterday I bought isopropilic alcohol as recommended.
As I said it seems to be an obgoing process even in areas where I seldomly use, for example the circular mark at the left in the picture, I only printed there once and the part left a mark when removed
As I said it seems to be an obgoing process even in areas where I seldomly use, for example the circular mark at the left in the picture, I only printed there once and the part left a mark when removed
Re: Problems with bed in A10
My first cleaning was with mix ethylene, isopropyle, acetone - which I use on other printer with plain glass and glue. But it make smears like fog, so I was did not use it anymore. Then I was use IPA only. Cleaning is generally not needed, all print residues go away when glass is cold under 70-80 deg. Did not touch plate of course...
Try to communicate your problem directly with Geetech staff, they are very agile and helpfull to any tiny problem you have.
Try to communicate your problem directly with Geetech staff, they are very agile and helpfull to any tiny problem you have.
A10M Slic3r profile: here and fresh on github (lot of tips here)
A10 Slic3r profile: here
TIP: tight all screws and wheels (except right side of Z axis) and re-align frame while assembly. And silence it.
A10 Slic3r profile: here
TIP: tight all screws and wheels (except right side of Z axis) and re-align frame while assembly. And silence it.