I received my printer A10M, but despite several attempts impossible to have a correct impression.
No adhesion on the tray supplied with the printer, I put a glass plate, and the adhesion is better but the impression is not smooth, we see the coarse layers, no finishing.
Or she makes pies out of the nozzle.
Can you help me ??
Problème d'impression A10M
Re: Problème d'impression A10M
Not only must we BUILD a printer when we get it in; but, we must also OPTIMIZE it. The Geeetech build instructions are a bit confusing in this regard because they jump right into printing of your first object.
But, as with ALL new 3D printers that is rarely or never possible.
Bed adhesion depends on two important optimization processes... Bed Leveling and Printhead Gapping.
I'm going out of town for a few days. When I get back I will go into more detail on both of these operations and share a document with you that should be very helpful in being able to print well.
But, for now, I will just give you some brief steps to take.
1. Mark a dot on each knob with white paint, fingernail polish or a small piece of tape so that you can judge a full turn of the knobs.
2. Tighten all knobs to full spring compression.
3. Loosen all knobs three turns
4. Move the print head to each corner and loosen that corner knob until the print tip puts pressure on the paper causing resistance to movement
5. Do this at least twice in all corners as loosening and tightening any one corner slightly affects the others.
The next step is to try to print objects designed specifically to test level and gap. There are two such files in this Dropbox location. I would print the 20x20 version first and when you have made the adjustments to print that one well, move on the the larger one.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hu02cigyfvzl ... dYhxa?dl=0
The cool thing about using these files as your first print is that you can actually make adjustments to the knobs while printing. Loosen tension if it's not sticking and tighten tension if the lines are too smashed. You'll also probably find that even though the center sticks well, you may have to make adjustments to get the larger version to stick well in all corners. That is because there may be some warp in all print beds.
Also, don't be afraid to abort the print to save time if you think major adjustments have to be made. You may have to run them many times to finally hone in on the perfect level and gap.
If you have the 3DTouch, which I recommend, use the Z-Axis Offset to fine tune gap.
But, as with ALL new 3D printers that is rarely or never possible.
Bed adhesion depends on two important optimization processes... Bed Leveling and Printhead Gapping.
I'm going out of town for a few days. When I get back I will go into more detail on both of these operations and share a document with you that should be very helpful in being able to print well.
But, for now, I will just give you some brief steps to take.
1. Mark a dot on each knob with white paint, fingernail polish or a small piece of tape so that you can judge a full turn of the knobs.
2. Tighten all knobs to full spring compression.
3. Loosen all knobs three turns
4. Move the print head to each corner and loosen that corner knob until the print tip puts pressure on the paper causing resistance to movement
5. Do this at least twice in all corners as loosening and tightening any one corner slightly affects the others.
The next step is to try to print objects designed specifically to test level and gap. There are two such files in this Dropbox location. I would print the 20x20 version first and when you have made the adjustments to print that one well, move on the the larger one.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hu02cigyfvzl ... dYhxa?dl=0
The cool thing about using these files as your first print is that you can actually make adjustments to the knobs while printing. Loosen tension if it's not sticking and tighten tension if the lines are too smashed. You'll also probably find that even though the center sticks well, you may have to make adjustments to get the larger version to stick well in all corners. That is because there may be some warp in all print beds.
Also, don't be afraid to abort the print to save time if you think major adjustments have to be made. You may have to run them many times to finally hone in on the perfect level and gap.
If you have the 3DTouch, which I recommend, use the Z-Axis Offset to fine tune gap.