SKR V1.3 on the A10 - Any pointers?

[Matsubaa]

I did something dumb, broke my thermistor loose trying to change the nozzle and apparently fried the controller such that I didn't kill the fuses, just any ability to read a temperature correctly...

I have an SKR 1.3 on the way, arriving Monday since it was actually cheaper to upgrade than to replace. I'll probably step up to the TMC2130's at some later date but for now it's just a straight-up replacement of the GT2560 v3 I'm after.

Has anybody done this upgrade successfully? Any gotchas for which I need to be on the lookout? I'm okay with microelectronics, just apparently ham-handed with a wrench.

[William]

Hi, If you want to replace the driver board with the TMC2130,
You can refer to this: http://geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 130#p82941

[Matsubaa]

Honestly any tips at all are welcome.

I have the board in-hand now. I've flipped the jumpers to support the A4988 drivers I already have. I'm plodding my way through the Marlin 2.0 PlatformIO issues including an undocumented requirement to reboot the board *twice* for a firmware installation instead of just once which I had to find in a Github search. There's an Ender3 config available which I'm using for a baseline.

The Geeetech modularized connectors for the bed and the extruder/hot-end seem to be undocumented in my searches so far so breaking those wires out to connect them to the new board is another adventure.

I also seem to have randomly encountered a wiring fault in my X endstop wherein the wrong two wires are bundled (+5 and G instead of +3.3 and G as in every other switch) and my connectors are reversed. The excess voltage causes the board to shutdown every time the X stop is touched and I'm not exactly sure why that fault didn't show up with the GT2560 installed, just a baseline difference between ATMega and SAMD controllers I imagine.

Thanks again in advance to anyone with information.

[Matsubaa]

Using the below images, I cut the connector off the control-board end of the hotend bundle.

I'm don't have the 3d touch connected yet but I've confirmed I've got motion control, heating and fans.

I've crimped on JST connectors for leads that needed them.
Pin -> Board Connection
6 -> I
7 -> H
8 -> D
9 -> H
10 -> D
11 -> C
12 -> C

Jumpers are reconfigured for the A4988s I already had from the original hardware. Steppers are connected as labeled.

I did a diff between the example A10 Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h and the default and copied over any values pertaining to the steppers, bed dimensions, etc. since I didn't change those out. All motion axes were reversed versus the default Marlin distributed by BigTreeTech's GIT repo.

I commented out anything regarding stepper drivers - Marlin defaults to the A4988s I already had but the BigTreeTech file was set up for TMC2208s.

I'll need to get into the weeds with the board schematic to work out exactly which leads are which on the servo connector (expecting the Geeetech stuff to be in a standard RE: pin 1, gnd, etc. hasn't worked out). I'll need to do the same with the limit switches as I've found they're not just plug-and-play with the new board either, the 3.3v, 5v and gnd pins aren't as the SVR board would expect them and everything crashes when used as-is. Fortunately it seems that the board is (at least marginally) 5v tolerant so I haven't fried anything yet with my brief and abortive attempts so far.

I also need to redo the cable bundle for the heated bed but that mapping is less awkward since there's no extension board like there was on the hotend. The hotend cable actually has a different number of leads on the controller end than on the gantry end and the ones that do carry over don't run straight-through.

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SKR Connection Diagram.jpg (221.87 KiB) Viewed 34519 times

[Matsubaa]

I've now added TMC2209s with sensorless homing.

Important side note - recent documents suggest the TMC2209 works with spreadcycle homing but I found that not to be the case. BigTreeTech's Marlin repo defaults to explicitly setting spreadcycle homing and provides zero documentation about it which cost me almost a week of my limited available time.

[Matsubaa]

On my A10 heated bed I have an array of wires -
2 black
2 red
1 blue
1 green

I guessed that blue/green were likely the thermistor, red was +24v and black was ground/- since that would follow standard +/- color coding.

I find instead that one of the red/black pairs shows the 100k resistance expected for the thermistor.

The other 4 wires show continuity and no measurable resistance between any arbitrarily selected pair - red/green, red/black, red/blue, blue/green, blue/black, black/green.

Is this broken? How do I decide which pair is which with everything showing connection to everything else?

Update: I forgot to switch my multimeter down to measure the much smaller resistance on the other pairs. If I'm reading https://www.geeetech.com/geeetech-super ... -1019.html right, I need to pair up my other 4 wires such that I have 4 Ohm resistance between the pairs and that should be right? And it's a resistive heater so +/- shouldn't be important other than the LED won't light up if I get it "wrong".

[Fraser]

You are doing well. I have tried everything on my A10 with SKR v1.3 and 2209's but haven't got any software endstops to work at all. I have just finished rewiring them to go back to the microswitchs. If possible I would really appreciate a copy of your config.h and config_adv.h
What are you using for your LCD display? I am just using octoprintat the moment but that has some restrictions as well.

[Sun_Dancer]

Hello, I am currently converting my A10M to a Bigtreetech SKR V1.3 + TMC2208 UART with TFT35 V3.0.
Everything is wired except for the filament sensors, which I will leave out until the board works properly. For now, I'll stick to the microswitches for the end stops.
now i'm ready that all axes run correctly, the endstops work, auto-homing, heating for bed and nozzle including thermistor. BL Touch works at least to the extent that the Senosr is addressed correctly. Somehow the needle on my sensor hangs from time to time, so I don't really get any further at the moment.
greetings

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IMG_20200104_014911.jpg (402.87 KiB) Viewed 33760 times

[William]

Hi,You can check if your Bl touch probe can move up and down normally,
Properly adjust the tightness of the upper screws.

[Sun_Dancer]

Hey hello, thanks for the tip. I didn't know that you could adjust the attraction. I'll deal with it in a minute.