I used a standard 3d printer test model (2.6x2.6x2.4"), which has very small features and bridging. The small post in the front of the piece measures 2mm. Normally it would take over 3+ hours to print at .2mm and 8+ to print at .1mm (times from a web site), I'm under 40 minutes.
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/zipfiles/f9 ... r_test.zip
This is mine. It sure won't win any beauty pageant, but it printed in under 40 minutes (including warmup!) using a .8mm nozzle and a .5mm layer height. Overhang did pretty well till about 50 degree. The detail matches the gcode, it is just at .8mm/.5mm the the details are chunky, nothing I can do about that. The speed is cranked up to 100mm/sec and retraction is set at 200mm/sec, with a retraction @ 3.5mm. .8mm coast. 210c temp. Minimum extrusion length .3mm and endpoint extension .1mm. (the last 2 were important to force small details to print)
Geeetech does not make a .8mm nozzle for the M10T, so I purchased MK7 nozzles. Because I want to do color swapping, I also purchased 4mm brass tubing with a 1mm wall, which I cut a small piece off and fit inside the MK7 nozzle as a sleeve to fill the inside gap of the nozzle down to 2mm. I have a 1mm nozzle I may test soon. I also have fine nozzles and tubes to go from 4mm - > 2mm and 2mm -> 1mm to try to get crisper color changes. I've also orders a 5 pack of geeetech .4mm nozzles I plan to drill out.
I'm new to 3d, but not new to graphics. The method I used to tune the values is to change one variable and print it again. Then change one variable and print it again. I walked through every variable in simplify3d and adjusted a value and printed again. Retraction is 3.5mm because it had slightly less stringing than 3mm and no difference from 4mm. I even printed a replacement fan shroud made a few angel hairs go away. The temp is 210 and not 190 because 210 was stronger and had less stringing than 190, where dropping the temp would print a better overhang, but at a cost strength. A layer height of .4mm would also improve the overhang, but at a 20% cost on speed. The stringing on the little posts happens because the area is so small there the starting point is still molten when the tip returns and not enough area for the coast to happen that it drags a small string. The sting is coming from the post, not the nozzle, so further retraction doesn't help. Switching to cura might allow an extra move at the end that would eliminate the string, but not worth my effort at this time.
The model was downloaded from thingiverse. I'd suggest any newbie, like me, to take a day and tune their settings to print it cleanly and learn the slicing program. Understand what every setting in the program does, then test them to determine the optimal value for the desired results (speed/quality/strength/beauty). I'll be repeating this same process for different desired results. Color is on my list. How small can I go?
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/zipfiles/f9 ... r_test.zip