A10M Slic3r profile

[leongy1717]

Already done at hot bed temperature 90, 100, 110, 120 deg C and 10, 15, 20, 30 mm/s speed.

[William]

You can try to print other models or re-slice the model. I suspect that your gcode has a problem.

[Jarda3d]

P.S. -- Few prints of octopus & A10M Fan Cover cannot raise Z-axis to above 1 mm, despite over 1 hour of printing.

BAD MAIN UNIT VENTIALTION!!! See here what you need to do with main unit. Do not cover system fan with any "silencers", in 95% they are all bad!

http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 98&t=68275

[Jarda3d]

New profile update.

Slic3r A10M 190820.zip

(39.07 KiB) Downloaded 1021 times

All profiles have incorporated height temperature profile except STRONG profile, because temperature manipulation between 4 and 33mm cause lower strength in affected parts mainly in white ABS (probably TiO2 colour).

Note that I use light profiles on dark colours too now... Just try it. If you broke printed piece, use acetylene to melt and join broken surface and place around thin parts.

[Jarda3d]

Dual color printing fixed error with retract, more refinements

Slic3r A10M 190907 - dual print fixed.zip

(33.5 KiB) Downloaded 1002 times

How to do with dual colors:

toy ship dual color.zip

(1.24 MiB) Downloaded 984 times

[Jarda3d]

Profile update for DUAL COLOR printing

I was change nozzle cleaner - bad gum slice for leather. Now little but important changes!

WHY YOU NEED NOZZLE SHAKING?
When your cleaning piece is not good. Now I was use hard pig leather 1mm thick (from gloves) and little steel plate to make good shape of leather like ")". Cleaning is perfect. Now shaking have impact on print quality and stringign between object and cleaning place, so it is disabled now.

Slic3r A10M 190908 - DUAL revisited.zip

(33.95 KiB) Downloaded 979 times

[Jarda3d]

If you make these changes, you will get more nice flat finish and retraction is less visible. But you could get problems with some bridges.

- infill/perimeter overlap to about 25% (20-25%)
- external perimeter extrusion width to 0.44mm

Reason: extrusion tip is like sharp V, not much place to leave leaks under flat bottom of extruder. Retraction does not get back all leaked plastics and leave little blob already. Thinner track will leave much smaller blob probably due less filament pressure.

The sharp V tip also does not much weld ends of bridges, so if you use it a lot, make overlap larger.

Note that it is slill for 340 E- steps as on the original firmware. 430 steps are in ZIP archive inside this archive, but it is no more actualised.

Slic3r A10M 190922 tuned.zip

(36.47 KiB) Downloaded 953 times

[Jarda3d]

minor updates and wayback some vase settings.

Slic3r A10M 101116.zip

(34.16 KiB) Downloaded 997 times

This vase is resized to 133mm height https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2838942 and is here in gcode and photo with settings

Rubins_vase_V6.zip

(1004.9 KiB) Downloaded 902 times

Rubins vase.jpg (111.38 KiB) Viewed 33863 times

nastaveni.png (20.71 KiB) Viewed 33863 times

[Jarda3d]

Slic3r A10M 3D printer profile
==============================

Slic3r A10M 191230 - Cards tuned.zip

(245.5 KiB) Downloaded 954 times

Also on GITHUB: https://github.com/Jardal/A10M-Slic3r-profile

Included example of dual color print without bucket and without tower

This is content of the folder and file structure from c:\Users\[yourname]\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r

This profile is for genuine Slic3r.org slicer development version only, which you can download it here: https://dl.slic3r.org/dev/win/
Note that Slic3r need a lot of power to display itself, it will display slowly on machines with Atom or similar CPU.

**All settings are for UNTOUCHED printer as you got it from manufacturer.**

All values are calculated to 340 extruder steps as in A10M factory firmware. If you have calibrated values or use 430 steps, set it to factory values.

Printing speed is limited by volumetric speed to 10mm3/s. Physical limit of path extruder gear - hotend tip is about 13-15mm3/s. Because my extruder lever is broken after few weeks, I was print another and use bigger spring. Your gears should be clean, no splinters from filament, only small amount of white dust at both sides of saw wheel and filament way is mirrorish clean.

There is unique **implemented height-temperature response** which is good for free-air printing. I was discovered right values while printing of skewed vase mode complex models. But result is not as strong as high temperature prints.

## Slicer picked options

#### Advanced
- Infill/perimeter overlap - if your long bridge hairs are falling from edges, use bigger value
- XY Size Compensation - compensation if you need to fit together (0.05mm mean 0.2mm difference in tolerance of joined diameters)

#### Extruders
options for dual material or color prints only

#### Extrusion width
Use both values to fit your design or use "auto" value together with Fill gaps option checked.

#### Infill
- Infill patterns - Hilbert is for great adhesivity of bottom side. Other use as you want.
- FIll angle set to 90 if you want different bridge or top layer way.
- Fill density - use bigger values to make it strength
- FIll gaps - worse print quality, better strength
- Combine Infill - for speed-up prints
- Infill before perimeters - use it if you need as much exact size of diameters or when infill destroy perimeters (ABS); use low infill only (10%)
- Only infill where needed - unchecked is for strong prints, checked acts as internal support material
- Solid infill treshold - about 5-10 for strong vertical sticks, 0 for selected % infill only.
- Solid infill every - is for better strength

#### Layers
- Use adaptive slicing - for models with many skews, Quality 75% is good for many details, 35% is good few details
- Avoid crossing - if on, then printing quality of small details is much worse, leave it off (maybe disappear in future - future is now)
- External perimeters First - if you want to have as much exact surfaces as possible.
- Only retract when... - disable it in rare case of simple objects or if you print infill only without perimeters (aka negative vase mode), enabled for spedd-up print

#### Speed
- bigger speed = worse detail, worse adhesivity

## Complex objects guide
#### Print settings
- HQ/AUTO - select what is better for your model (see Preview)
- Speedy Gonzales is faster print
- Speedy McQueen is fastest print as possible, quality is not measure
#### Filaments
- Speed - for speed prints
- Dark/Light - about filament colour
- CARDS - for thin cards or very tiny or thin objects with small height - note that strongness is much worse.
#### Printer
- STRONG - for strong objects, it does not have height temperature profile as others do. Reccomended with LightSpeedy filament settings, but quality is lower due high-temp artifacts while retraction
- HQ/Speed - correspond with Print settings

## Vase mode prints guide
#### Print settings
- vase HQ for highest quality of print
- vase Speedy Gonzales is fast print
- Vase Paper-thin - if you need paperweight vase mode figures
#### Filament
- vase HD - for high details prints
- vase BLACK - for asphaltic black colour only
- Light Speedy - for all other colours - if it does high-temp artifacts, use dDark Speedy or Dark only.
#### Printer
- Simple Vase for simple vase models without retractions
- Strong if object is not slashed
- HQ/Speedy if vase is relative complex object with needed retractions

## Dual colour print configuration
For bucket and switching filaments (no mixing at the moment)
- Print: HQ/Speed
- Filament: DUAL
- Printer: DUAL

## Tricks
- print models near back of build plate, it will save your cables
- try to print "body" of the vase model by setting perimeters to zero.
- objects could be printed as vase too if you need it for measuring if it will fit to. If object is multipart, export whole bed from Slic3r as STL
- Support is needed only in rare case, adaptive mode prints from about 10 deg withut it.
- Microsoft 3D Builder is not bad for editing models. But Tinkercad is better for exact construction work.
- Geeetech in download section have Color Mixer software, try it. It supplies mixer from control Panel, but way better.
- if you need dual coloured part, go to Settings button...
- Each gcode file from Slic3r contain at the end whole printing configuration which could be imported to Slic3r again
- Slic3r remember settings and you want to begin with defaults? Simply edit file slic3r.ini and delete row with last_output_path and whole sections Presets and Recent.
- Dual colour print should be used without filament cleaning, but remember that to change colour it need about 25mm in extruder (ie., 25-50 cm of transient colour to fully change colour). You slould set same value (2 for left extruder) to Infill and Perimeter extruder in Extruders section

## Notes about material
Profile is for ABS only. Best colours for quality printings are white, yellow, green, light gray. Bad colors are silver, black. Use plastics without smell, they are way better than fume filaments.

## How to make good printer
### Tighten it all
Printers need to be tightened after shipping shocks. Use only manual screwdriver to tighten all screws and wheels except the wheels at the right side of X arm. Hotbed springs need to be slightly tightened too, so you could put Z-axis switch to 1-2mm lower position for greater stiffness.
### Lubricate it all
Use gun oil to lubricate bearings and lithium vaseline to the Z-axis rod and gears in the extruder (except saw wheel of course).
### Do it at the first
- filament filter
- dual colour bucket
- extruder lever
- Cable pathway helper
- LED lightning in the top-dovn V-slot(2x 10cm LED 12V strip in series), powered from PSU, but you must know what you do, otherwise your printer will be burned.
- fan silencer (note that for 2019/10 version is needed only one for PSU)

...Files, images or links will be added later, stay tuned.

[Dombo71]

Slic3r A10M 3D printer profile
==============================

Slic3r A10M 191230 - Cards tuned.zip

Also on GITHUB: https://github.com/Jardal/A10M-Slic3r-profile

Included example of dual color print without bucket and without tower

This is content of the folder and file structure from c:\Users\[yourname]\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r

This profile is for genuine Slic3r.org slicer development version only, which you can download it here: https://dl.slic3r.org/dev/win/
Note that Slic3r need a lot of power to display itself, it will display slowly on machines with Atom or similar CPU.

**All settings are for UNTOUCHED printer as you got it from manufacturer.**

All values are calculated to 340 extruder steps as in A10M factory firmware. If you have calibrated values or use 430 steps, set it to factory values.

Printing speed is limited by volumetric speed to 10mm3/s. Physical limit of path extruder gear - hotend tip is about 13-15mm3/s. Because my extruder lever is broken after few weeks, I was print another and use bigger spring. Your gears should be clean, no splinters from filament, only small amount of white dust at both sides of saw wheel and filament way is mirrorish clean.

There is unique **implemented height-temperature response** which is good for free-air printing. I was discovered right values while printing of skewed vase mode complex models. But result is not as strong as high temperature prints.

## Slicer picked options

#### Advanced
- Infill/perimeter overlap - if your long bridge hairs are falling from edges, use bigger value
- XY Size Compensation - compensation if you need to fit together (0.05mm mean 0.2mm difference in tolerance of joined diameters)

#### Extruders
options for dual material or color prints only

#### Extrusion width
Use both values to fit your design or use "auto" value together with Fill gaps option checked.

#### Infill
- Infill patterns - Hilbert is for great adhesivity of bottom side. Other use as you want.
- FIll angle set to 90 if you want different bridge or top layer way.
- Fill density - use bigger values to make it strength
- FIll gaps - worse print quality, better strength
- Combine Infill - for speed-up prints
- Infill before perimeters - use it if you need as much exact size of diameters or when infill destroy perimeters (ABS); use low infill only (10%)
- Only infill where needed - unchecked is for strong prints, checked acts as internal support material
- Solid infill treshold - about 5-10 for strong vertical sticks, 0 for selected % infill only.
- Solid infill every - is for better strength

#### Layers
- Use adaptive slicing - for models with many skews, Quality 75% is good for many details, 35% is good few details
- Avoid crossing - if on, then printing quality of small details is much worse, leave it off (maybe disappear in future - future is now)
- External perimeters First - if you want to have as much exact surfaces as possible.
- Only retract when... - disable it in rare case of simple objects or if you print infill only without perimeters (aka negative vase mode), enabled for spedd-up print

#### Speed
- bigger speed = worse detail, worse adhesivity

## Complex objects guide
#### Print settings
- HQ/AUTO - select what is better for your model (see Preview)
- Speedy Gonzales is faster print
- Speedy McQueen is fastest print as possible, quality is not measure
#### Filaments
- Speed - for speed prints
- Dark/Light - about filament colour
- CARDS - for thin cards or very tiny or thin objects with small height - note that strongness is much worse.
#### Printer
- STRONG - for strong objects, it does not have height temperature profile as others do. Reccomended with LightSpeedy filament settings, but quality is lower due high-temp artifacts while retraction
- HQ/Speed - correspond with Print settings

## Vase mode prints guide
#### Print settings
- vase HQ for highest quality of print
- vase Speedy Gonzales is fast print
- Vase Paper-thin - if you need paperweight vase mode figures
#### Filament
- vase HD - for high details prints
- vase BLACK - for asphaltic black colour only
- Light Speedy - for all other colours - if it does high-temp artifacts, use dDark Speedy or Dark only.
#### Printer
- Simple Vase for simple vase models without retractions
- Strong if object is not slashed
- HQ/Speedy if vase is relative complex object with needed retractions

## Dual colour print configuration
For bucket and switching filaments (no mixing at the moment)
- Print: HQ/Speed
- Filament: DUAL
- Printer: DUAL

## Tricks
- print models near back of build plate, it will save your cables
- try to print "body" of the vase model by setting perimeters to zero.
- objects could be printed as vase too if you need it for measuring if it will fit to. If object is multipart, export whole bed from Slic3r as STL
- Support is needed only in rare case, adaptive mode prints from about 10 deg withut it.
- Microsoft 3D Builder is not bad for editing models. But Tinkercad is better for exact construction work.
- Geeetech in download section have Color Mixer software, try it. It supplies mixer from control Panel, but way better.
- if you need dual coloured part, go to Settings button...
- Each gcode file from Slic3r contain at the end whole printing configuration which could be imported to Slic3r again
- Slic3r remember settings and you want to begin with defaults? Simply edit file slic3r.ini and delete row with last_output_path and whole sections Presets and Recent.
- Dual colour print should be used without filament cleaning, but remember that to change colour it need about 25mm in extruder (ie., 25-50 cm of transient colour to fully change colour). You slould set same value (2 for left extruder) to Infill and Perimeter extruder in Extruders section

## Notes about material
Profile is for ABS only. Best colours for quality printings are white, yellow, green, light gray. Bad colors are silver, black. Use plastics without smell, they are way better than fume filaments.

## How to make good printer
### Tighten it all
Printers need to be tightened after shipping shocks. Use only manual screwdriver to tighten all screws and wheels except the wheels at the right side of X arm. Hotbed springs need to be slightly tightened too, so you could put Z-axis switch to 1-2mm lower position for greater stiffness.
### Lubricate it all
Use gun oil to lubricate bearings and lithium vaseline to the Z-axis rod and gears in the extruder (except saw wheel of course).
### Do it at the first
- filament filter
- dual colour bucket
- extruder lever
- Cable pathway helper
- LED lightning in the top-dovn V-slot(2x 10cm LED 12V strip in series), powered from PSU, but you must know what you do, otherwise your printer will be burned.
- fan silencer (note that for 2019/10 version is needed only one for PSU)

...Files, images or links will be added later, stay tuned.

Dear thanks for your profiles...
See you on git, what are the diferents between git and her?
Git is latest version?


I mis the "bundel' from the master in git? When is load all the differents config is that the same like a bundle?

And in the master branche i see print and printer, are those the same?
Perhaps also other bundles, like fillemanent etc.
Perphaps also have petg bundels?

And is there also a "printer" that i can import in pursaslicer, so i can see geeetech?