Geeetech

Hi All

I'm having a few issues with the Mk2a heat Bed in that it's not giving an even heat. Has anyone upgraded thier heat bed to something better? Andy suggestions?

Re

Ssendam

Hi


And do you know this subject?


You may not have discovered anything new, but you only read the forum poorly. There are a few more similar topics.


If you have problems with the efficiency of heating, I suggest you check the quality of electrical connections of this element.

Thanks

The linked post is very interesting but I'm not sure it solves my issue though. My heating bed is the Mk2a PCB, not the aluminium one ... but I am having similar issues.

I was thinking of moving to the aluminium one but it looks like you had issues with that.

What I have been looking for is an alternative design Heat Bed for the i3 Pro B but I can't find anything that suits yet, (the link you gave is to something hat is 230mm x 230mm)

Anyone hopped up this part successfully?

Hi again.


For clarification:
The Geeetech Superplate 3D Printer Glass Platform is also available in a size of 220x220mm.
The Geeetech Superplate 3D Printer Aluminum Heatbed Kit is also available in a size of 220x220mm.
Below you will find an interesting conversation. I think it's worth reading because it concerns your model.
Have you seen it

I, of course, do not persuade you to buy.

You can also try the glass pane placed directly on your Mk2a.

Hi, Thanks again ...

I have the Mk2a board which is 214mm (distance between the corner holes 210mm). Does that mean I'd have to do some modifications?

I did in fact get this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK3-Heatbed- ... 2749.l2649

But whilst I'm a good solderer I'm not 100% sure the connections, (yet). Do you know if the Heat Bed is 12v or 24v?

Do you know if the new Prussa Mk3 plate is the same size?

It seems people are a bit fast and loose with the measurements of these things!

All good fun!

Ssendam wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:00 pm

Hi, Thanks again ...

I have the Mk2a board which is 214mm (distance between the corner holes 210mm). Does that mean I'd have to do some modifications?

...

You'll hold the elements together, you'll see it.

Ssendam wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:00 pm

...
I did in fact get this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MK3-Heatbed- ... 2749.l2649

But whilst I'm a good solderer I'm not 100% sure the connections, (yet). Do you know if the Heat Bed is 12v or 24v?
...

The item from the presented link has universal power supply.
This means that when you connect the supply wires to the appropriate fields, the heater will operate correctly with a 12V or 24V power supply.

The difference is the resistance of the conductive routes.
When using the 24V terminals, the heater resistance is higher.

If you are interested in this topic, you can read more details on the wiki page of this project.

When you have a 12V DC power supply in your printer, nothing will happen when you connect the wires to the 24V power supply of the hot plate.
If you have a 24V power supply, I would not try to connect the power supply to the 12V outputs
Well, unless you're curious what's going to happen.
In this case, you may need a new power supply and a new hot plate.

Ssendam wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 24, 2018 6:00 pm

...
Do you know if the new Prussa Mk3 plate is the same size?

It seems people are a bit fast and loose with the measurements of these things!

All good fun!

I have no idea about that.
I suggest to look for reliable descriptions on the Internet.

One more thing.
If you think of reworking your new hotplate, you cannot damage or narrow down the conductive paths.

I wish you a nice day.

Thanks (again) ... I'm learning

I'm going to try and use the Aluminium Plate I bought (the Mk3).

The item from the presented link has universal power supply.
This means that when you connect the supply wires to the appropriate fields, the heater will operate correctly with a 12V or 24V power supply.

The difference is the resistance of the conductive routes.
When using the 24V terminals, the heater resistance is higher.

OKay, I got this; The plate has two connection options so it's a case of just chosing the right one. Solder the connections, add the thermistor, tape up and all good.

But ...

When you have a 12V DC power supply in your printer, nothing will happen when you connect the wires to the 24V power supply of the hot plate.
If you have a 24V power supply, I would not try to connect the power supply to the 12V outputs

This is the bit I'm struggling to figure out. I'm using a GT2560 rev A+ board which says it operates in 12V or 24V, but I can't find enough clear documentation to tell me if you need to change something to switch between the 2 or it's automatic, (I realise the other components will operate at a fixed voltage).

If I put a Voltmeter on the board when its running I get 10.94V which does suggest it's operating at 12v.

What's the advantage of 24V, faster heating times?

Hi


If you find out that your motherboard can operate at 12V or 24V, it's good.

In this case, everything generally depends on the power supply you have.

Generally, it should work as you expect. Theoretically, the heating time should be a bit shorter.
This depends on the heater resistance and the current efficiency of the PSU.