a30t upgrades

[Bignrich09]

what are some good upgrades for the a30t?


thanks

also does anyone have any Repetier-Host or cura profiles for it?

[William]

Hi，there is currently no Repetier-Host profiles,
this is cura profiles.

A30T.rar

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[KriKri854]

OK thank you.
After the first print I did not realized one good print.
I checked all bolds and tighten them where loose, leveled the bed manually three times (because 3d touch is broken), replaced nozzle, cleaned printer head in filament settings, cleaned hotbed, ect.

What am I missing?

[Sodium100mg]

I went with a glass bed, attached with platen adhesive (screen printing) and hairspray for tack, after screwing up the bed cover that came with the printer. This setup seems a good mix between parts being stuck on the bed and falling off. I use a razor scrapper to clear the bed, followed by a quicl spray of hairspray. When it gets old, a damp rag will clean the hairspray glass.

I use octoprint to send files to the printer, using the windows version of octoprint, an old android phone and "IP Webcam pro" ($5.00) to send the camera image to octoprint. Except for the phone app, I had everything else laying around, so it was free to me. Octoprint allows one PC to host the printer and octoprint, while I can see the printer from across the room from my laptop and send files. There is also a raspberry pi version that is cheap and doesn't require a pc.

I purchased larger nozzles to print faster, at the cost of quality. The also make smaller nozzles that sacrifice speed in exchange for quality. the .4mm is probably the best compromise between speed and quality.

[KriKri854]

Where did you buy the nozzles? I do not find them as these are M7 srew nozzles. The most common are screw M6

[gio@dkonline.be]

A30T upgrade????

1/ TMC2209
2/ 3X BMG EXTRUDERS
3/ G2T BELT
4/ GLASS BED
5/ TURBO FAN FOR FANDUCT
6/ A BETTER FANDUCT
7/ NOCTUA FAN FOR PSU
8/ FANDUCT FOR DRIVER WITH SUNON SILENT FAN AND REMOVE THE 80X10 FAN FOR REMOVE BIG BIG NOISE
9/ 3X PTFE CAPRICORN TUBE
10/ CLOSED LOOP MOTOR FOR X AND Y TO PRINT WITHOUT LOOSE STEP
11/ A BETTER MOSFET FOR BED STOCK IS SLOW HEATING

After all replaced... i begin to make 75% good print... but impossible multicolor without stringing with stock config or not

with stock config... impossible to print a good stl, always bad result.

[Sodium100mg]

The MK10 nozzles have a 7mm thread, but with an more open inside diameter. I don't like the a10t mixing hot end, because it is VERY slow to swap colors, so I'm in the process of swapping hot ends, but have other things that put it on the back burner.

The Geeetech hot end has valves in the hot end the disrupt retraction, so after color swapping, whatever exists between the valve and the nozzle slowly dribbles out, so the more open diameter just adds a little more volume, but in spite of removing the valves and putting a sleeve in the nozzle (2mm brass tube, .5mm wall), it still was dreadfully slow to change colors.

If you are just looking for a bigger nozzle, the MK10 work fine. I was getting fairly good results at a .8mm nozzle size and greatly improved speed.

[gio@dkonline.be]

stringing not solved without valve?

[gio@dkonline.be]

no, its better but not 100% solved.

[Maccron]

!