TL smoother add-on

[Jarda3d]

For voltage settings.

First check temperature of stepper motors after a hour of printing. If you can hold tight stepper stator by your hand for more than 10 seconds, they are cold.

Remember these feelings and do settings. Note that every 0,1V above (in this case only) will gain 20% of power and heat too (but heat loss is quadratic too...)

The A10 have problem with extruder, stator need thermal shield with air gap from build plate. Stator is also thermally blocked with O-rings - for quiet operation. This is the warmest stepper on the printer, but I was gain it too a little. A10M does not have this problem.

Coolest extruder is Z, but did not set more than 1.2V as reccomended.

[FearNaBoinne]

You measure across the groundpin (top right) and the potmeter...

PS: You can use any groundpoint on the system (for instance the USB port outer casing) for GND.
And if you use a metal tipped #1 Philips screwdriver (be careful not to create shorts!) you can even measure the voltage as you turn the pot by grounding the voltmeter black lead and touching or clamping the red lead to the screwdriver's metal tip...

[FearNaBoinne]

For voltage settings.

First check temperature of stepper motors after a hour of printing. If you can hold tight stepper stator by your hand for more than 10 seconds, they are cold.

Remember these feelings and do settings. Note that every 0,1V above (in this case only) will gain 20% of power and heat too (but heat loss is quadratic too...)

The A10 have problem with extruder, stator need thermal shield with air gap from build plate. Stator is also thermally blocked with O-rings - for quiet operation. This is the warmest stepper on the printer, but I was gain it too a little. A10M does not have this problem.

Coolest extruder is Z, but did not set more than 1.2V as reccomended.

I prefer to do 0.025V increments and see at which point it is stable and reliable, I don't like stepping up ~10% at a time if ~2.5% - ~5% suffices...
(I didn't know what drivers were inside until I saw the picture, I worked with these before and should have a few spares lying around somewhere! <G>)

[BobaLives]

So just to be clear, all 4 little driver boards (1 by fan and 3 on side) are to be between 0.8 - 1.2V? Can I use the case as ground, like the inside of a screw hole that is bare? hard to get test lead to stay put on that tiny pin.

[BobaLives]

OK, I got all 4 driver boards to read 0.9V. The one near the fan (at the bottom of the picture) was reading 0.4v and I had to turn the pot counterclockwise to make it increase. Same as the middle one on the side, CCW to increase from 0.6V to 0.9V. The lower one on the side ( in picture) was super touchy, it was at 1.9V and I had to turn it CCW to decrease, yes CCW... barely turned and it was down to 0.5V, barely turned CW and it was back up to 1.6V... I managed to get it to 0.9V. Top driver on side was reading 0.9V.

So why were 2 drivers CCW to increase and the other CW to increase?? I'm not an electrical engineer, or circuit card expert.... please explain.

[William]

Hi, The driver board voltage ranges from 0.8 to 1.2V.
Increase the voltage clockwise and decrease the voltage counterclockwise.

[BobaLives]

If the voltage on one of the driver boards will not stay at 0.9V, it keeps dropping to 0.6V do I need to replace the board? it adjusts to either 0.6V or 1.6V... I barely turn it and that is it, I got it to 0.9V last night, rechecked all voltages this morning and it was at 0.6V. barely turned it and it went to 1.6V and back and forth between those 2 voltages.

if so, are these boards universal between 12V and 24V systems?

[William]

Hi, You can take it down and use it,
Pay attention to the power-off operation and then pay attention to the color correspondence.