Mark
"no stl files, it's a metal box and will be included in the I3 aluminum Kit in the future, or you can buy it seperately."
Well I bought my Aluminum Full Metal Prusa a couple of weeks ago and there is no box for the Mainboard. I have been looking for one to print on Thingverse as that left area where the mainboard is looks a mess of wires despite my trying my best at cable management.
While assembly I found that there was a difference between the item numbers in packing list that came with the printer and the assembly instructions I was asked to download. Turns out the packing list is correct and the assembly instructions PDF is wrong. This caused me to have to undo screws that were too long for the holes and made assembly take longer.
Also the PDF does not show what the parts should look like when assembled. This means that I had to switch between the PDF instructions, the packing list and the online videos to see if I was doing things correctly. All this extra effort could have been avoided if the instructions were correct.
The instructions are a cut and paste from earlier versions of other printers and some are just wrong.
There is even mention of Acrylic when this is a full metal printer.
Some other points:
The circular X Axis clamps/stoppers - instruction PDF says to put them on the outside, but if you do that, tightening the belt causes the vertical support rods to bow inwards. Also the top left one does not fit on the outside.
Even the image of another Geeetech Prusa printer on the wiki shows the x axis stoppers/clamps on the INSIDE!!!
I ended up putting them on the inside and had to attach a small plastic piece to the extruder carriage so it would contact with the X endstop.
The screw for the XAxis belt tightening pulley is too long and there is no other screw left that fits. I had to cut about 5mm off the end of it so that it would fit.
The Clips provided to clamp the glass to the heated bed are terrible for that. The front left on is always being knocked off when homing or bed leveling.
The spring loaded screws for fixing the heated bed to the Aluminum base plate are difficult to get at when leveling and calibration. The extruder comes in the way and has to be moved to access the screw each time which is tedious. A better idea is to have thumb screws underneath which will be easier to access.
Also there is no reason for having 4 screws to level the bed. It is easier and better to use 3 screws. The bed already comes with a hole predrilled for a screw between the wires at the rear. All that is required is a hole in the Aluminum base plate at the middle rear.
As mentioned, there is no provision for the power supply and power switch wires. They are exposed and I have already had 2 shocks from accidentally touching the wire while switching on. So I have printed a box for them and this will be fixed onto the PSU to hide the power wires and be safe.
If I think of anything more I will post it here.