Prints too big

hough · Post by **hough** » Mon Sep 07, 2015 4:41 am

I finally have been able to print. The first items I chose to print were the broken delta parts. When I print them they are coming out larger than the originals. I am using the stl files supplied on this website. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:12 pm

How much does it larger than the original one?

hough · Post by **hough** » Tue Sep 08, 2015 11:10 pm

The new parts were 10 percent bigger. I changed the scaling in repetiere to .90 and they have been coming out at the right size. What settings in slicer could cause this?

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Wed Sep 09, 2015 5:27 pm

Don't know if there's a seting that can cause this problem.
But you can change settings as the pic shows, adjust X,Y,Z axis steps per mm to find out the appropriate steps.

hough · Post by **hough** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:05 am

2560 is that correct. I put it in the firmware and burned it. My printer did not like it at all. It would not even home.

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:37 pm

Did you change any others settings? Generally change the X Y Z axis steps will not cause the home problem.

hough · Post by **hough** » Thu Sep 17, 2015 1:18 am

I didn't change anything else. I have the rostock g2 dual extruder. one thing I did find is that some of the heat sinks were shorting pins on the driver module. I am not sure what affect that would have on the drivers but I have corrected

I had a question about the stl files you provide:

There are files that start with rkm and also files that start with gth. which ones are for which printer. the hotend mount is what I am interested in. the circle with the cutout and the rectangular bracket that bolt into the spider/effector. are those different from printer to printer?

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:21 pm

Haven't use other extruders before

MK8 is OK.

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Fri Sep 18, 2015 6:34 pm

There are files that start with rkm and also files that start with gth. which ones are for which printer. the hotend mount is what I am interested in. the circle with the cutout and the rectangular bracket that bolt into the spider/effector. are those different from printer to printer?hough

Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Jul 07, 2015 1:30 am

GTH3 are belong to the old G2/G2S, but they also used in the new G2S, so just the names are different, they are the same actually.

hough · Post by **hough** » Wed Sep 23, 2015 7:38 am

Thanks mark. I have solved a couple of issues i had after assembly. the first was the temp probe for the hotend would move in and out. Regular heatsink paste worked well to fill the gap. it dries and get crusty and holds the temp sensor in nicely. another is epoxy. i busted the spider several times and epoxy worked well to get me close enough to print a new one. you told me to change the steps per mm but that caused my z motor to grind when homing. i am not sure what that causes. i am using the repetier firmware you provide. if you can send me another i will try it and see if it fixes my prints being too large.

when connecting the spider to the bering mounts i have seen mulitple pictures on the website instructions that show the giant disc washers against the bering and accordint to the instructions i used it shows you placing them against the bering. putting them against the bering limits the movement of the rod and i think is snapping the spider on radical movements. i put them against the spider but that caused play. the rod bering slides about 1 mm. i saw someone post about it somewhere else. My solution was to use springs that just wrap around the bering rod and they put tension so the rods dont slide back and fourth.

The current limit switch solution is a nightmare. when assembled as instructed they move all over the place and often miss the switched all together when homing. part of this in my case is the 3d printed brackets were horrible so my berings did not go in far enough before i zip tied them changing where the limit switch screw to be a little off center. i broke down and just put wood screws in them to have a solid actuator that didnt move around all the time. if you guys could take a look at that or put out a video that shows exactly how to assemble, how they should function and a few faulty installation methods it would help so many people out.

The autoleveling i have not been able to use. you have to jam the switch in between 2 allen screws and the little printed disc doesnt allow the tightening of the screw enough to stop the spring from moving. that and because my spider was horrid the rod didnt fit into the hole then once it did it kept jamming. i saw on some other pictures you has a switch on a bracket that screwed into the spider. would it possible to get that stl file?

i hope some of this made sense if not and you are absolutely lost let me know i will upload pictures.

Geeetech

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