Rostock 301 Assembly and firts run...
Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:26 am
Hi.
Here is a short review of my building and using of rostock 301
This is my third printer, first was a Fabikator mini (hobbyking), second was a geeetech G2S Pro.
I dont need but i love to build machines, and to be able to print every useless plastic thing i want.
After my succesfull G2S Pro build, i wanted to try the diamond head, with mixing colors.
I bough a rostock 301
I recieved it and easily finished the build in about 12 H (i'm quite slow, but it's a part of the pleasure)
The mechanics is quite similar to my previous build, the G2S Pro, and the wiring part is significantly better than on G2S Pro.
Geeetech building instructions were ok for me.
user manual is... not fantastic.
Prefer Cura, and lower print speeds...
To get my RCP and RCF Cura config files, search my post on reprap; i can't upload them on this forum... (extensions not allowed)
The firmware of this printer is not open source and I already posted sometimes, always asking to release source code, no effect for now.
Here are the main steps for me to pay attention when building that printer, and getting it to print something.
1 When assembling, verify the rods lengh; mine where correct, exactly 200 mm.
2 When configuring printer, after levelling the bed (caliper needed), on printer screen adjust printer rod lengh (200 for me), printer heigh (225 for me) and Z offset (0,2 for me), Rod radius was 93,1 for me.
2,3 Adjust acceleration on lcd screen, stock value is 5000, correct is 100
2,5 Add some elastic bitween rods, to limit head loose moves.
2.6 pay great attention when mounting the screen holders that are very weak, I broke both of them...
3 Unmount the useless extruder fans. Yesss, you get 3X 40 mm fans for free
4 change crappy stock etruder mechanism with something serious ( metallic and where you can ajust spring). THAT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO PRINT BEFORE THIS STEP
5 Keep bowden tubes as short as possible (50 cm)
6 Push vrefs : 0,85 for steppers, 1,04 (max possible for me) for extruders (stock vref loosed many steps for me)
7 When configuring in repetier, use Cura instead of Slic3r.
8 I print PLA; right temp is 210 for me, no heating bed is needed.
9 Top and bottom thickness = 1mm
10 Speeds : All prints bitween 15 and 20 mm/s. Moving 40 mm/s.
11 retract : 5 mm
12 end code script, erase the disable steppers command, replace by G28 (home) command.
13 The layer fan can be software piloted if plugged on the pwm plug on the extruder 3.
The printer is way slower than whet is said by geeetech
Above 30 mm/s, extruders can't follow and loose step, and quality is awfull (for me)
Mixing feature is not supported in gcodes. Only knob and printer screen.
Burning specific 301 Firmware :
This works, i achieved it.
1 put the jumper
2 flash bootloader (Ok, I see the progress bar going on, and the prog tells me it's succesfull)
3 remove jumper
4 launch hyper terminal, right com port, 115000Bauds
5 wait the writings as on your screenshots.
6 hold C Key + disconnect icon.
7 Push 1 key
8 send file Ymodem (new 1.0.0.2 firmware) OK, i see the progress bar, and when finished, some chinese writings in hyper terminal.
Disconnect.
Because the mechanic is similar with the G2S PRo, many mods are compatible with 301
Useful mods for that printer :
This one is a must. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1582570
This one is simple, but i made it myself. many alternatives exist. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1634366
This one is my favourite led holder : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1533003
Extruder metal kit; without it, impossible to print anything. Stock ones are cheesy craps.
http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-MK8- ... 70154.html
http://www.banggood.com/PC4-M6-Pneumati ... 03368.html
My printer works correctly, but is still slow, ans the retract is problematic, letting many 'hairs' to complex prints...
I'm now working on something to correctly hold the layer fan.
Here is a short review of my building and using of rostock 301
This is my third printer, first was a Fabikator mini (hobbyking), second was a geeetech G2S Pro.
I dont need but i love to build machines, and to be able to print every useless plastic thing i want.
After my succesfull G2S Pro build, i wanted to try the diamond head, with mixing colors.
I bough a rostock 301
I recieved it and easily finished the build in about 12 H (i'm quite slow, but it's a part of the pleasure)
The mechanics is quite similar to my previous build, the G2S Pro, and the wiring part is significantly better than on G2S Pro.
Geeetech building instructions were ok for me.
user manual is... not fantastic.
Prefer Cura, and lower print speeds...
To get my RCP and RCF Cura config files, search my post on reprap; i can't upload them on this forum... (extensions not allowed)
The firmware of this printer is not open source and I already posted sometimes, always asking to release source code, no effect for now.
Here are the main steps for me to pay attention when building that printer, and getting it to print something.
1 When assembling, verify the rods lengh; mine where correct, exactly 200 mm.
2 When configuring printer, after levelling the bed (caliper needed), on printer screen adjust printer rod lengh (200 for me), printer heigh (225 for me) and Z offset (0,2 for me), Rod radius was 93,1 for me.
2,3 Adjust acceleration on lcd screen, stock value is 5000, correct is 100
2,5 Add some elastic bitween rods, to limit head loose moves.
2.6 pay great attention when mounting the screen holders that are very weak, I broke both of them...
3 Unmount the useless extruder fans. Yesss, you get 3X 40 mm fans for free
4 change crappy stock etruder mechanism with something serious ( metallic and where you can ajust spring). THAT WAS IMPOSSIBLE TO PRINT BEFORE THIS STEP
5 Keep bowden tubes as short as possible (50 cm)
6 Push vrefs : 0,85 for steppers, 1,04 (max possible for me) for extruders (stock vref loosed many steps for me)
7 When configuring in repetier, use Cura instead of Slic3r.
8 I print PLA; right temp is 210 for me, no heating bed is needed.
9 Top and bottom thickness = 1mm
10 Speeds : All prints bitween 15 and 20 mm/s. Moving 40 mm/s.
11 retract : 5 mm
12 end code script, erase the disable steppers command, replace by G28 (home) command.
13 The layer fan can be software piloted if plugged on the pwm plug on the extruder 3.
The printer is way slower than whet is said by geeetech
Above 30 mm/s, extruders can't follow and loose step, and quality is awfull (for me)
Mixing feature is not supported in gcodes. Only knob and printer screen.
Burning specific 301 Firmware :
This works, i achieved it.
1 put the jumper
2 flash bootloader (Ok, I see the progress bar going on, and the prog tells me it's succesfull)
3 remove jumper
4 launch hyper terminal, right com port, 115000Bauds
5 wait the writings as on your screenshots.
6 hold C Key + disconnect icon.
7 Push 1 key
8 send file Ymodem (new 1.0.0.2 firmware) OK, i see the progress bar, and when finished, some chinese writings in hyper terminal.
Disconnect.
Because the mechanic is similar with the G2S PRo, many mods are compatible with 301
Useful mods for that printer :
This one is a must. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1582570
This one is simple, but i made it myself. many alternatives exist. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1634366
This one is my favourite led holder : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1533003
Extruder metal kit; without it, impossible to print anything. Stock ones are cheesy craps.
http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-MK8- ... 70154.html
http://www.banggood.com/PC4-M6-Pneumati ... 03368.html
My printer works correctly, but is still slow, ans the retract is problematic, letting many 'hairs' to complex prints...
I'm now working on something to correctly hold the layer fan.