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Mechanical endstop is not compatible with the GT2560

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 12:47 pm
by diegomonzon
Hi Geeetech
I have had a terrible experience with your Geeetech control box .
I have been weeks trying to make it work and still can't make the Endstops to work properly. For that reason I can't home my machine. I found tons of people with the same problem and no clear solution.

The firmware is very very slow, it takes forever to navigate the menu.

I have built other machines with Arduino and Ramps and everything is faster and simpler.

After days and days searching in the forum for my Endstops problem I found this buried in a post:
THE MECHANICAL ENDSTOP IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH THE GT2560 BOARD

You should definitely write this in the product page.

https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopi ... ble#p31767

I wanted to like the control box but so far it has been very frustrating, Still without solution.

Diego

Re: Mechanical endstop is not compatible with the GT2560

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 5:08 pm
by _kaktus_
Hello.
:mrgreen:

Can you specify which printer model you are talking about and which software version :?:

Re: Mechanical endstop is not compatible with the GT2560

Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 7:36 pm
by eye
We all use mechanical endstops with GT2560!

On the model with two-pin sockets, just connect an endstop switch in any way to COM/NO or COM/NC. Make sure to invert in software if not working.

On the model with three-pin sockets, the innermost pin is GND, the middle is signal, and the outermost near the edge is +5V. Make sure not to connect +5V pin to a switch, the endstop switch is connected between signal and GND. Connecting +5V and GND via a switch will likely damage the voltage regulator, while connecting +5V and signal via the switch will damage the processor.

If you mean specific endstop boards, we don't use them, because we use internal pullup on the processor, which must be activated. Endstop boards can have their own pullup. The processor pullup is insufficient to light a LED. We use naked switches instead. Analysis of the specific endstop board is needed to devise a plan for its use and determine compatibility, they are likely not all the same. But generally i suspect they can be wired on boards with 3-pin endstop connectors directly; otherwise you need to take +5V for their operation from a testpoint on the board.