Major problem in M201

[arakna]

Hi
I been wrote his to issues first in a year ago. Not proper answer.
I ordered and assembly Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 Dual extruder Mixcolor 3D printer DIY kit.
Nice work , but;

Temperature what printer use is not rigth (pic. 1,2,3,4) and Ican't adjust it can I.

pic 1

DSC_0496_2.jpg (121.46 KiB) Viewed 11677 times

pic 2

DSC_0497_2jpg.jpg (108.49 KiB) Viewed 11677 times

pic. 3

DSC_0501_2.jpg (111.65 KiB) Viewed 11677 times

Also there is picture of my test situation and tool.
(pic.5 and pic. 6)

pic. 5

DSC_0499_2jpg.jpg (146.41 KiB) Viewed 11677 times

pic.6

DSC_0503_2.jpg (107.25 KiB) Viewed 11677 times

Also I use only ABS filament and temperatures.
How I can get 3Dpriter temperature to rigth temperature in Extruder. Now I have USE ABS what melt in a little lower temperature.
I like to have this working rigth whitout glogging and jamming. Always you dont't know how printer works glogging or it jamming
Remember that temperature in Geeetech Prusa I3 M201 FIRMWARE is limited to 255 celsius. Cant adjust it in that way.

Second major failure is Z zero poit moving before start. It can move about.25 mm up or down. So it is ruining printing even it started.
I am very satisfied for you aftersale team to send me spareparts.

Solution please for this.

A

[arakna]

... of course I forgot something.
Controller is GTM32 old version. Not USB flash.
Firmware is 1.05 latest. Updated 1 year ago . Is there coming new version "soon".

I am so disgusted with this thing he could bone. I want this solution or instructions how to do themselves.
If this is not a sensible solution. I have to replace the entire electronics which is M201.
So I reject GTM32 because its development seems to have come to the end. And I do not recommend to anyone that device. Which is a real shame as this device has the potential and the different perspective of 3D printing.
I want to print 3D printer, and I lay down and rub its operation every time when i'm going to print out something.
It is not even something the user can adjust and change. Eg. Temperature of just which accuracy is perhaps the second most important 3D printing process. If there is no heat does not melt filaments.

BR
A

[bang]

Hi

Concerning the first issue,i think maybe there is some deviation on your measurement.'Cos what you test is the external temp of the hotend while the temp on the LCD is the internal temp of the hotend.So that's it.
To verify if it reaches the desired temperature,i think you can extrude the filament with you hand to see if the flow is smooth when temp reaches.

As for the second one,i can't get what exactly you are expressing?Normally,the Z axis will move up and down to several milimeters when "auto home"?Of the printer head will auto home before printing.

[bang]

And as far as i know,the latest version for the old GTM32 is 1.0.5

[arakna]

Hi,
dear bang . Are you M201 owner or working in Geeetech or are you common besserwisser. People makes typos, do you make typos. Also my englis is worst because it is not my native language.
If you don't have something really helpfull to answer do not bother. People is looking answer to they problems from this forum not picking.
Little respect Please..

Yes in old GTM32 has latest FIRMWARE version 1.0.5

BR
A


1. problem

Now I do new measurement´s and find out LCD shown temperature is 20°C more than measured. pic 2 1/2
This measurement procedure start in that few of my ABS filamen´t causes clogging in extruder. Even I heated hotend to max. temp 270°C .(limited is
not bad at all but it causes problem in this case)
Now we see that real temperature is 20C below and highest temp what i get in M201 and GTM32 with firmware 1.0.5 is only 250°C pic1 .
I need for ABS to rise limited temp +15°C up to get adjustment for hotend real temperature.between 230C - 265°C

2. problem

Z- homing is wondering. When I start new printig or start printer Z-homing may go ramdomly between -0.50mm or + 0.50mm up or down from that where you let it last time.
Even you adjust it 0.0 mm then start printing it may goes up +0.5mm over the hotbed or try to go -0.50mm below hotbed. Then you have to stop printing in a start homing again.
It don't depend how hight you drive hotend before you homing, or you reset GTM32 or start Repetier again. (I have that starting g-code in Repetier, what i got from Geeetech ).
or do these all
I use feeler gauge and ordinary printing paper to calibrate cap between nozzle tip and hotbed to right
It is really frustrating to adjust and check z-axel measures.everytime when i use printer.


If developing M201, GTM32 and firmware 1.0.5 is stopped. I have to do something. I bought this printer to use it not for adjusting.


BR
A

[arakna]

Ok
I solve Z-axis problem. I change Z-axix homingspeed to 20 and then it start to homing exactly. I think if you have too slow z-axis homing speed it causes wondering to distance between nozzle top and headbed . [SOLVED]

One major problem is still on.
Now I seem to start fix that temperature correction.
If I not find extruder NTC resistor values in this forum can I have it.


BR
A

[William]

hey guy,you can measure the resistor by the multimeter.

[arakna]

Off course I can measure it by multimeter using ohms not volts. But I need a curve and B=.
Real termperature°C and resistant on that temperature.-
BR
A