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jfotopoulos
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:07 pm
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by jfotopoulos » Thu Mar 23, 2017 9:31 pm
hawth725 wrote:jfotopoulos wrote:hawth725 wrote:Yes. Same board number 2560 Rev A. But take a look on the processor part number it was used. If it says AtMega1280, use that and not the Arduino Mega 2560.
Ok I will check it out as soon as I go home. What if its the 1280.
I've burned the 2560 bootloader.
Do I burn the 1280 first?
thanks again you've been most helpfull
No need to burn it. Just make sure you're using the Arduino 1.0.4 and set the "Arduino as ISP". I've tried it also but it didn't help. It gives me the AVRDUDE errors. So I immediately proceed to that plan I've told you, and it worked smoothly.
Let me know the progress. Good luck
Note: I'm trying to attach the my board's picture for your ref. But the file was too large to attach
here's a tip from me great tool...
http://app.prntscr.com/en/download.html its the second thing I install in any PC (1st is avast
) just hit Prntscr and mark the area. Then upload it on the cloud and send the link! Check it
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jfotopoulos
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:07 pm
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by jfotopoulos » Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:00 am
hawth725 wrote:jfotopoulos wrote:hawth725 wrote:You missed to click the CONNECT tab besides the BAUD Rate setting.
No I did and this is what its doing...trying to connect I also enabled "debug communications" to see what its doing (sending this M-105)
I made mine work just now. Follow the ff steps, it might help you as well.
1) Use Arduino 1.0.4
2) Download the Marlin-PI3 Pro B
3) Connect the USB and open the Device Manager. Once the new COM port appeared and detects your board (remove all motor driver boards), delete the driver and update it with the updated one.
4) Open the Arduino and the Config.h file.
5) Select the TOOLS tab and select the AtMega 1280 (not the 5260). That's if the main processor in your board was the AtMega 1280. But if it is the original AtMega 5260, choose the 5260. For sure, its the 1280.
6) Choose COM3
7) Choose "Arduino as ISP" as PROGRAMMER
8) Verify the file
9) Open the SKETCH tab and choose the Verify and Compile
10) Select the UPLOAD button
Try those steps and let me know if it help you. Good Luck!
No luck... the only think changed is that after 5 6 timeouts I get avrdude done(see photo) but still nothing... I get this on the lcd and board flashing.
Which USB driver do you have? mine is: USB Serial Port (COM3) FTDI 26/8/2014 ver 2.12.0.0
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- Screenshot_3.jpg (142.08 KiB) Viewed 15986 times
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- lcd.jpg (291.43 KiB) Viewed 15986 times
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- gt2560.jpg (468.86 KiB) Viewed 15986 times
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hawth725
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:37 pm
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by hawth725 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:44 am
Also remove the LCD display while you're programming the board.
Did you changed the baud rate on the PC device manager configuration? Set it as it is 9600. The 115000 or 250000 baud rate only needed for print executions to communicate with the slicer program, like Acura, Pronterface, etc.
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jfotopoulos
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:07 pm
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by jfotopoulos » Fri Mar 24, 2017 12:54 am
hawth725 wrote:Also remove the LCD display while you're programming the board.
Did you changed the baud rate on the PC device manager configuration? Set it as it is 9600. The 115000 or 250000 baud rate only needed for print executions to communicate with the slicer program, like Acura, Pronterface, etc.
I didn't change anything the photos are after this. I just have the power and USB cable on (also changed 3-4 cables)
There is no other explanation there must be a hardware problem with the board
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hawth725
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:37 pm
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by hawth725 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:01 am
jfotopoulos wrote:hawth725 wrote:Also remove the LCD display while you're programming the board.
Did you changed the baud rate on the PC device manager configuration? Set it as it is 9600. The 115000 or 250000 baud rate only needed for print executions to communicate with the slicer program, like Acura, Pronterface, etc.
I didn't change anything the photos are after this. I just have the power and USB cable on (also changed 3-4 cables)
There is no other explanation there must be a hardware problem with the board
Unplug the main power while programming the board. The USB itself will power the board. Remove all installed stepper motor modules as well as the LCD cables. The only cable connected to your board should be the USB cable only. And again, recheck every settings you have in configuration.h file you created. Match it with the original. But you have to define the correct LCD type. Otherwise you cannot see anything on the screen.
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jfotopoulos
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:07 pm
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by jfotopoulos » Fri Mar 24, 2017 1:15 am
hawth725 wrote:jfotopoulos wrote:hawth725 wrote:Also remove the LCD display while you're programming the board.
Did you changed the baud rate on the PC device manager configuration? Set it as it is 9600. The 115000 or 250000 baud rate only needed for print executions to communicate with the slicer program, like Acura, Pronterface, etc.
I didn't change anything the photos are after this. I just have the power and USB cable on (also changed 3-4 cables)
There is no other explanation there must be a hardware problem with the board
Unplug the main power while programming the board. The USB itself will power the board. Remove all installed stepper motor modules as well as the LCD cables. The only cable connected to your board should be the USB cable only. And again, recheck every settings you have in configuration.h file you created. Match it with the original. But you have to define the correct LCD type. Otherwise you cannot see anything on the screen.
It doesn't work without power! I didnt change anything on the configuration.h file. I just want to upload the original firmware from Geeetech
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hawth725
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:37 pm
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by hawth725 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 4:07 am
Ive noticed that you saved the Arduino and all of your files into the cloud based drive. Move all your files including the unzip Marlin firmware to your document folder along with the Arduino program and open it from there. The board itself has a wait time for transmission. So if the cloud server thats holding your cloud drive was busy, communication of your pc to the board will be disrupted because of the time delay.
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jfotopoulos
- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:07 pm
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by jfotopoulos » Fri Mar 24, 2017 5:42 am
hawth725 wrote:Ive noticed that you saved the Arduino and all of your files into the cloud based drive. Move all your files including the unzip Marlin firmware to your document folder along with the Arduino program and open it from there. The board itself has a wait time for transmission. So if the cloud server thats holding your cloud drive was busy, communication of your pc to the board will be disrupted because of the time delay.
no its the same...I am sure its the USB Ftdi chip... I am waiting for an answer from Geeetech Tech for 5 days now!!! They have to send me a new board.
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hawth725
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:37 pm
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by hawth725 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 5:55 am
jfotopoulos wrote:hawth725 wrote:Ive noticed that you saved the Arduino and all of your files into the cloud based drive. Move all your files including the unzip Marlin firmware to your document folder along with the Arduino program and open it from there. The board itself has a wait time for transmission. So if the cloud server thats holding your cloud drive was busy, communication of your pc to the board will be disrupted because of the time delay.
no its the same...I am sure its the USB Ftdi chip... I am waiting for an answer from Geeetech Tech for 5 days now!!! They have to send me a new board.
Have you tried to connect it to other computer? If the new computer didnt detect your board, that means there's something wrong really on its hardware. But if it detects the hardware but cannot communicate with it, thats the driver issue.
