mintemp Rostock G2 control board

[hough]

I just finished assembling my rostock g2 dual extruder. I am getting the min temp error. It doesn't matter which thermistor I put where the error is constant. I am going to do more troubleshooting.

I have a geeetech printrboard board rev D. If the rostock2 board i just assembled is damaged can i use this other board temporary until i get a replacement control board.

If i can do i have to change the firmware?

[Sherry]

Please reburn the firmware.Then take a picture of what LCD show.

[hough]

I am very disappointed in QA used in part selection. The temperature problem was caused by the wrong connector installed on the limit switches and hot end cooling fan.
http://i.imgur.com/YuGNCZz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5R77fsp.jpg

I tried the hot end for the first time and the hotend cooling fan connector fell off and the hotend melted right off. How come the connectors on some of the wires are wrong for the connector on the control board? There were so many things wrong in the setup and the documentation was so horrible. You have not updated them properly for the dual extruder. when assembling the spider with the dual extruder you make no mention that the daul assembly will not work with the single assembly instructions you give no photos as too the orientation of the hotends in relation to eachother. while assembling the rods on to the spider the screw and washer call out do not work as the holes for securing the pin in to the spider are bigger that the screw and washer that is holding them.they slide right through. the instructions for attatching the auto leveling are horrible also the pictures in the dual manual do not represent what is actually shipped and there is no instruction that i have found yet that indicates where the bed level switch should be connected. the screws used to actuate the limit switches are too small for the hole in the bracket so the screws with the springs can be off missing the switch entirely while homing. i assume the hardware i received for those were incorrect. taking off the bracket off in an attempt to make the screws more sturdy the bracket cracked when it was removed from the berrings. I was so amazed on how great the acrylic pieces came together and how everything fit perfectly then i got to the spider and the brackets...

I have finally worked through all of the issues except now i have wires that will not stay connected. a fried hot end, a spider with incorrect assembly hardware. i had to take it apart so many times it is cracked.

how do i get a new hot end? spider with the correct hardware, switches and a fan with the correct connectors, new sliding brackets with the correct hardware to actuate the homing switches properly???

[Sherry]

I am very disappointed in QA used in part selection. The temperature problem was caused by the wrong connector installed on the limit switches and hot end cooling fan.
http://i.imgur.com/YuGNCZz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5R77fsp.jpg

I tried the hot end for the first time and the hotend cooling fan connector fell off and the hotend melted right off. How come the connectors on some of the wires are wrong for the connector on the control board? There were so many things wrong in the setup and the documentation was so horrible. You have not updated them properly for the dual extruder. when assembling the spider with the dual extruder you make no mention that the daul assembly will not work with the single assembly instructions you give no photos as too the orientation of the hotends in relation to eachother. while assembling the rods on to the spider the screw and washer call out do not work as the holes for securing the pin in to the spider are bigger that the screw and washer that is holding them.they slide right through. the instructions for attatching the auto leveling are horrible also the pictures in the dual manual do not represent what is actually shipped and there is no instruction that i have found yet that indicates where the bed level switch should be connected. the screws used to actuate the limit switches are too small for the hole in the bracket so the screws with the springs can be off missing the switch entirely while homing. i assume the hardware i received for those were incorrect. taking off the bracket off in an attempt to make the screws more sturdy the bracket cracked when it was removed from the berrings. I was so amazed on how great the acrylic pieces came together and how everything fit perfectly then i got to the spider and the brackets...

I have finally worked through all of the issues except now i have wires that will not stay connected. a fried hot end, a spider with incorrect assembly hardware. i had to take it apart so many times it is cracked.

how do i get a new hot end? spider with the correct hardware, switches and a fan with the correct connectors, new sliding brackets with the correct hardware to actuate the homing switches properly???

Dear hough
This is Eric.i could not contact with you via email in recent days since it show information like that:550 Requested action not taken: mailbox unavailable.could you give me the correct mailbox address. our tech suppot will contact you via email.
some customer also encountered with the same problem as yours,most of them was cause by the incorrect temperature reading.and most the endstop problems would result in the axis movement or auto -home errors.Base on the customer feedback,the following factors will cause the mintemp error.
1.wrong wire connection.some customers might connect the thermistor wire to the wrong slot.
2.thermistors is short circuit;
all these will cause printer could not reconize the correct temperature ,and LCD will shows min temp error.and the extruder will be heating contantly,finally burnt out.
so,could you check your wire connection carefully,or take a picture of wire connection.

Regarding to the fried hot end and spider,the fried hot end could not use.so you the better change a new one.do you have any other printer,you could print the spider on you own.i will send you the stl file of the spider.
here is the latest building instruction for delta rostock. please refer to the attachent.
don't hesitate to contact me,if you have any question.

[Sherry]

sory,the files is too big, maximum allowed size is 5 MiB.could you leave you mailbox.thx

[hough]

some customer also encountered with the same problem as yours,most of them was cause by the incorrect temperature reading.and most the endstop problems would result in the axis movement or auto -home errors.Base on the customer feedback,the following factors will cause the mintemp error.
1.wrong wire connection.some customers might connect the thermistor wire to the wrong slot.

I explained that I the connectors are falling out because they are the wrong ones. They should be XH2.54-2P 2.54mm Connectors that would lock the cooling fan connector to the board. I stated the problem with the min temp was again the wrong connectors they too should be XH2.54-2P 2.54mm Connectors. i dont understand why you would ship parts with the wrong connectors on them. the temp wires were not shorted they were falling off the cca.

because the belt brackets were printed so poorly they affect where the limit actuator screw sits in relation to the limit switch. based on the instructions you just put a spring in to tention the screws.; they do nothing to prevent the slop in the hole and so the limist screws move all over the place sometimes hitting the limit switches sometimes not.

Do you not think it silly to sell a customer a printer with horrible 3d parts in it then tell the customer to print out some new ones for the printer he just bought them for in the first place. to answer your question no i do not have a second printer to print new parts for my new printer. the stl files in this case are useless. how do you not sell replacement pieces for you own printers? i tried to find them on line somewhere...anywhere! on ebay. i will take more photos when i get home do a side by side with your instructions and help you to see what is happening. i have already ordered the proper connectors for my limit switch and hot end fan. my electrical issues are solved.

the customer service answer to this should be:

sorry you are having so much difficulty with this sir. we will send you a new spider and xyz brackets we will also start providing them on our website. as for your hot end we will send you another for your inconvenience and our mistakes with the hardware and the inconsistent manuals we provided.

instead your telling me to go out and buy and somehow print replacement parts for the terrible ones i received. i have linked pictures showing the connectors and how they are not made for those headers.


2.thermistors is short circuit;
all these will cause printer could not recognize the correct temperature ,and LCD will shows min temp error.and the extruder will be heating contantly,finally burnt out.
so,could you check your wire connection carefully,or take a picture of wire connection.

Regarding to the fried hot end and spider,the fried hot end could not use.so you the better change a new one.do you have any other printer,you could print the spider on you own.i will send you the stl file of the spider.
here is the latest building instruction for delta rostock. please refer to the attachent.
don't hesitate to contact me,if you have any question.

[Mark]

Hi hough, sorry about the trouble we are making to you ! If the parts we sent to you were bad ,plz contact the customer service to replace them!
But I think Eric is just want to give some advices to you. Maybe he thought if you have another printer it would be solved quick and easy.
Hope you get your printer work soon and have fun!