Geeetech

Hi, You can try unplugging all the wires except for the power cable and the lcd cable to see how it goes. Well that will certainly stop the extruder overheating! It may help if you leave the extruder heater and then check with a multimeter across the pins for the extruder heater. If there is 12 V t...

Might not be a good idea. The specification for the GT2560 states 12 A for the heatbed and 5 A for the other ports (extruders).

Russell

Apologies, 3.7 ohm is for the extruder. The heatbed is 1.2 ohms so 10 A and 120 W. I have placed insulation under the bed and I put an insulated blanket on top while pre-heating to speed things up.

Russell.

Have a look at the user manual here https://www.geeetech.com/Documents/Users%20Manual%20of%20GT2560.pdf . It seems to suggest 12 A is the maximum. However I wouldn't want to go any higher than the current draw of the standard heatbed without extra heatsinking. The heatsink on the output mosfet gets ...

Sorry, I don't know if it is used. It shouldn't do any harm to try it and see.

Russell

The heatbed measures 3.7 ohm so at 12 V it will draw 12/3.7 = 3.24 A (less a bit for the voltage dropped by the mosfet). So about 3.2 x 12 = 38 W.

Russell.

The yellow wire is for the tacho output. If connected via a resistor to the +ve supply it will give two pulses per revolution of the fan. It can be used to detect the fan speed or just to ckeck that the fan is working. I don't know if your control board uses it but if it does it will signal an error...

Utilisez Google par example comme ça "Rostock 301 site:http://www.geeetech.com/forum"

Russell

Ihofeld,
Have you installed the driver for the FTDI chip?

Russell.

The thermistor resistance vs. temperature characteristics are defined in the firmware. If the thermistor in your headend isn't the exact same type as Geeetech use you'll not get the right temperature? Buy a new thermistor from Geeetech or re-use the one from your old headend.

Russell.