Geeetech

Please note that I used both PLA and PETG and used the appropriate temperatures for both. Forgot to mention that.

And the tubing was not blocked prior to installation - I looked down the feed shaft and could see all the way out the nozzle.

As a followup to this thread: http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=18367 After speaking with Geeetech support, and purchasing two of the parts they recommended: https://www.geeetech.com/mk8-extruder-hot-end-kit-p-1012.html I installed the replacement kit - but encountered a critical is...

The threads on my heater block have stripped, and now I need to replace it. What is the best way of going about this? On the geeetech store I saw several J-Heads but nothing specific to my model (Prusa i3x) Would appreciate information on which parts to buy and how to fix the unit, as it's pretty mu...

An update so others can benefit: Ended up needing to insulate the heated bed. To do this, I used insulating tape - the sort that are used for hot water pipes and HVAC ducts. Make sure you get the kind that can take the temperatures involved. Then I applied this in adjacent strips on the underside of...

Heating bed cannot reach above ~100c. Have to heavily insulate it to even reach ABS-practical temperatures, and its a huge pain. Have been printing in PLA successfully for a while. This machine is advertised as being able to handle a wider than average range of filaments, but cannot even reach the n...

I checked the voltage output for both the Hot end and the hot bed, both were below 12V

The hot end was ~7.9 volts and the bed much less at ~6V

How do I switch the power supply between voltages?

I have checked the Mosfet LEDS for both hotbed and hot end - both light up during heating. I have also used a multimeter to check the resistance for both Hot Bed (1.7 ohms) and Hot end (3.8 ohms) Warmest the hot bed can seem to get is 45 degrees centigrade. Hot end also seems to take forever to get ...

So it's all built. Troubleshot a few mechanical issues already and now I'm ready to transition to software and ideally, calibration and testing printing. But there are gaps I can't cross. Please help. Specifically: now that it's all constructed. I followed the instructions and connected via USB. Usi...

Solution Found: Took the rod out and visually checked it to confirm that it was straight and did not have any defects or damage. After isolating it, it became clear the resistance was between the road and the threaded bearing. In comparison, the second Z-axis rod/bearing was smooth. Here's how I fix...

I've upped the voltage to the motors to 1.0V and still no joy. The right hand motor/rod turns fine. When turning the rod manually there is little to no resistance. However when turning the left hand motor/rod, there is significant resistance. Detaching the rods/couplers from the motors and running t...